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2013-07-28
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Catalunya可算是2013年香港最受關注的新餐廳。Catalunya是行政總廚Alain Devahive Tolosa開的第二家分店,在新加坡已有一家Catalunya Singapore。Alain是曾經是全世界最頂級的餐廳 elBulli主廚Ferran Adrià的徒弟，與Ferran Adrià一起工作已10年。Catalunya在摩理臣山的地點較靜，但室內面積多逹8千平方尺，令人彷如置身西班牙一樣。食物方面，多款tapas, 例如Spherical Olives及Jamon Iberico Croquette等等都很有水準，但主菜卻有點令人失望。雖然價錢要每位$600至$1,000，但餐廳名氣大，所以每晩都是坐無虛席的。Catalunya was justifiably the most anticipated new restaurant in Hong Kong in 2013, and this is not at all surprising, given its impressive pedigree - it is helmed by Executive
Catalunya was justifiably the most anticipated new restaurant in Hong Kong in 2013, and this is not at all surprising, given its impressive pedigree - it is helmed by Executive Chef, Alain Devahive Tolosa, who has worked alongside Ferran Adrià of elBulli (once the world's best restaurant) for more than a decade, and his team of 20 chefs who come from many of Spain's top Michelin three-starred restaurants.
Catalunya is the sister restaurant of Catalunya Singapore. Located in an inconspicuous part of Morrison Hill, the restaurant is a huge 8,000 square foot space behind an intentionally low-key entrance, with a VIP room which can be accessed from a separate back entrance. I felt instantly transported to Spain as I stepped foot into this restaurant - dimly lit and in red-and-black tones, the venue is highly reminiscent of traditional restaurants in Catalonia, Spain.
The restaurant has proven to be immensely popular with the fine dining crowd in Hong Kong - even with dinner costing on average $600-$1,000 per head, the restaurant has been heaving every night since its opening. However, my verdict is that the restaurant didn't completely live up to the high expectations of it - for such an upscale restaurant, the staff was unexpectedly unfamiliar with the menu; the service was slow at times (but it could be forgiven as Catalunya is still within its first few months of opening) and while most of the tapas were utterly scrumptious, the main courses on the menu did not shine.
(1) Mixologist Dario Nocentini has created a list of unique, inspiration cocktails on the menu, and I ordered a glass of Stairway to Heaven ($160), a drink made with rum, pineapple purée, vanilla syrup, lime juice, egg white, coriander leaves and celery. The cocktail, presented ceremonially with smoking effects from dry ice was just the right kind of sweet, fruity drink to start our meal with.
(2) The Spherical olives ($15 each) are a must-try item at the restaurant. Originated at elBulli, each "olive" was basically olive liquid contained in a thin membrane, which delightfully popped in the mouth.
(3) The Cod Fish "Esqueixada" ($110) had a refined, sea-fresh taste and a firm, chewy texture. The Avocado and Lobster roll ($160), consisting of lobster, avocado, vegetables and mayonnaise, was a combination of common flavours which worked fantastically together, creating a fresh-tasting and delicious dish.
(4) The Jamon Iberico Croquette (4 pcs, $100) was undoubtedly the star of the night. Made with not mashed potato, but a mixture of velouté and flour, these deep fried croquettes were exquisitely smooth and utterly indulgent.
(5) The Lomito Iberico ($130), cured pork sirloin with smoked pepper hint, had an appealing texture; the level saltiness was also spot-on.
(6) The White asparagus ($110), made with flown-in asparagus, steamed and topped with tarragon mayonnaise, was light and delicate, with the mellow taste of asparagus perfectly complemented by the creamy textures.
(7) The "Escalibada" with foie-gras and smoked eel ($130) was accomplished. The perceptible smokiness of the eel worked brilliantly with the foie gras and the eggplants.
(8) The Tortilla de Trampo ($85), also called "Sin Tortilla", was a simple, yet well-balanced, dish. There was some uncooked egg white in the tortilla, which gave it an attractive moisture.
(9) The Gambas al Ajillo ($160), red prawns with crispy pork belly and "Ajillo", tasted intensely of scrumptious fresh prawns and were lifted by a kick of garlic. However, the soft and limp texture of the prawns did not do justice to the outstanding flavours of the dish.
(10) The Lobster rice with fresh grilled lobster ($480), an extravagant version of a simple paella, comprised of rice plumped up with thick, lobster bisque-like broth.The taste was startlingly fresh and oceanic, but was unfortunately way too heavy on the salt.
(11) If you have been reading other reviews of Catalunya, you would recognise the look of the Traditional Suckling Pig "Segovian Style" ($825 for 3-4 Pax), a signature dish of a sucking pig roasted in the traditional Segovian style. In line with tradition, the waiter cut the pig with a porcelain plate, instead of a knife. Putting the debate on whether this pig looked too much like a road kill aside, I have heard mixed reviews of its taste - while some praised it for its tender textures and succulence, I found the suckling pig a bit bland in taste and lacking in meaty flavours. There was a strong scent of rosemary as the dish was served, but it was not detectable taste-wise.
(12) Almond ($90) was apparently one of the most popular amongst the six desserts on the menu. A warm and smooth almond sponge cake was accompanied by a refreshing yuzu sorbet. While the light, mellow flavours of the dessert worked harmoniously, there was certainly no wow-factor. The "Torrija" ($70) came with a soft, warm, flan-like bread and a scoop of smoked milk ice cream, and was my personal favourite. The smoked milk ice cream was peculiarly tasty, with the smokiness accentuating the creaminess of the ice cream - provocative, yet delectable. The Chocolate ($95), served with three sticky scoops of differently flavoured ice cream or sorbet, tasted playful and interesting but I wouldn't peg it as scrumptious.
Catalunya, with its impressively large space and backed by a team of culinary experts, is guaranteed to be one of the most popular restaurants in Hong Kong and a must-try restaurant for Spanish food-lovers. However, do adjust your expectations of the cuisine - besides the absolutely brilliant tapas, there isn't much else to write home about.
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