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2014-11-12
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Watari crab salad under chrysanthemum flowersEnter the Autumn Forest - Simmered abalone, mushrooms, pine nuts on hot egg custardPoached Gillardeau oyster wrapped with shabu-shabu Wagyu beef and grated celeriac jellyFlavor of autumn - Charcoal grilled Matsutake mushroom in Ichibandashi soupAssortment of sashimiSlow cooked blue lobster and selection of vegetables with Manganji pepper flavoured sauceLarge eel grilled over Binchotan charcoalIkura salmon caviar and Kobashira on steamed riceTea before
Watari crab salad under chrysanthemum flowers
Enter the Autumn Forest - Simmered abalone, mushrooms, pine nuts on hot egg custard
Poached Gillardeau oyster wrapped with shabu-shabu Wagyu beef and grated celeriac jelly
Flavor of autumn - Charcoal grilled Matsutake mushroom in Ichibandashi soup
Assortment of sashimi
Slow cooked blue lobster and selection of vegetables with Manganji pepper flavoured sauce
Large eel grilled over Binchotan charcoal
Ikura salmon caviar and Kobashira on steamed rice
Tea before the dessert courses
RyuGin specialty -196C apple candy and +99C apple jam
Kyoho grapes and Nashi calpis jelly with sense of sudachi and shiso flower
Matcha to end the mealRyuGin Hong Kong is the first overseas branch of RyuGin Japan. It offers only one menu, a kaiseki of ten courses that highlights fresh seasonal ingredients flown in from Japan daily. I enjoyed each delicious and unique dish, but I had a few favourites. One was the Gillardeau oyster wrapped in Wagyu beef (or Boyster, according to Bf). The “Boyster” was presented in its original shell and thoughtfully cut into two bite-sized pieces. The flavour of the sweet and tender beef was more pronounced in the beginning, while the brininess from the creamy oyster came after. The tangy celeriac added brightness, bringing the dish together. It was definitely a well-executed dish. I would’ve never thought beef and oyster could be eaten together, let alone be this delicious!
Another notable dish was the grilled eel. The skin was super crisp while the meat was kept soft and sweet, with a hint of smokiness. The glaze was not too sweet, which I liked. Hands down one of the best eel dishes I have ever had. I also loved the molecular gastronomy dessert, which was a candy “apple” filled with powdered liquid nitrogen apple ice cream and topped with piping hot apple jam. Hot, cold, crunchy and fluffy all at the same time!
A lot of fine-dining restaurants serve expensive ingredients, slap a hefty price tag on them, and leave it at that. At RyuGin, you are paying for the skill and technique, heart and soul the chef pours into executing each dish. He condenses and amplifies the flavours of the ingredients without overpowering your palate. The chef is able to create a symphony of flavours and textures that work so well together. This is the epitome of Japanese kaiseki.
Aside from the food, you get a stunning view of the harbour from 101/F while enjoying impeccable service. The dark decor and wooden panels that separate each table create an intimate dining experience. The staff was attentive and very knowledgeable about each dish, from the source of ingredients to cooking techniques. Portioning and timing were perfect. The dishes arrived at an appropriate speed and I didn't feel rushed or that they took too long. After the dessert courses I was perfectly satiated.
Note that the menu changes every few months, so some items pictured above may not be available. My visit was on October 3.
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