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2014-11-25
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8/10 plates emptied!As I strolled along Lyndhurst Terrance, in fact quite in a rush for my lunch hour back to work, there I see this little elegant chocolatier near the clusters of bars and pubs, I stopped in front of their glass door and glanced at their lunch menus HKD148 3 course lunch (additional HKD50 for desserts), it seems to be more than attractive for a nice classy French culinary experience on a hectic weekday.So I dragged the whole Gang with me and booked ahead, anticipating for a dec
[Written in English by Carly, and Chinese by Gobay]
As I strolled along Lyndhurst Terrance, in fact quite in a rush for my lunch hour back to work, there I see this little elegant chocolatier near the clusters of bars and pubs, I stopped in front of their glass door and glanced at their lunch menus HKD148 3 course lunch (additional HKD50 for desserts), it seems to be more than attractive for a nice classy French culinary experience on a hectic weekday.
So I dragged the whole Gang with me and booked ahead, anticipating for a decent laidback lunch, the overall experience was more than delightful as we all left with happy tummies filled with heartfelt feeling from the hot chocolate and sweets.
當日四個午市套餐，再將甜品變成熱朱古力拼蛋糕和馬可龍杏仁餅，足夠試完整個套餐菜單上的選項。（HKD$198 + 10%服務費）
Panier à Pain (Bread Basket) 麵包籃It starts with the bread basket with two types of offering – Baguette & Focaccia-like baguette, herbs were added yet the flavor did not stand out and the baguettes were rather too soft on the inside and not crusty on the outside so this was rather disappointing for our bread expert Gobay.
麵包籃相對失色，一種是普通法包Baguette, 另一種是類似Focaccia的Baguette, 有香草和胡蘿蔔粒。但外皮不脆，內裡不軟，基本上「一無是處是包籃」。
Velouté de Châtaigne (Chestnut Soup) 栗子濃湯Carly’s personal favorite Chestnut! I still vividly remembered the profound Chestnut soup I once had at Spoon by Alain Ducasse at InterContinental in for their Autumn dinner menu. Chestnut most commonly used for autumnal dessert, it goes well as a mousse in layered cake, warm heart-throbbing soup, and roasted side dishes with poultry. It is not important for the chestnut to be as creamy as possible like any other pumpkin or pea soup but to have chestnut bits adding that textural complexity to a simple appetizer and Jean-Paul Hevin nailed it.
這個得到熱愛栗子的Carly盛讚，熱碟上檯後，侍應拿著純白的湯壺非常優雅地把湯倒入湯碟內，分量控制得很準確，一壺剛好是兩人份。湯入口順滑，再嘗時栗子茸的那份沙質感沉澱在舌上，甚至在湯勺的表面都能看到它的澱粉質。這正是我們追求的栗子濃湯的感覺，正如吃紅豆沙一樣要那種舌底沙沙地感覺，持久但不過強的栗子和奶油混合成的清香在鼻前縈繞，而且屬於秋季當造的食材，熱熱地喝到肚子里，感覺十分舒爽！
Salade du Jour (Salad of the Day) 是日沙律
Smoked salmon, fresh crispy veggie combo and Italian red wine vinegar salad dressing. The salad dressing was evenly spread on all the salad leaves. Smoked salmon was fresh and firm, nicely smoked which gives a hint of lightness to this refreshing salad.
煙三文魚配新鮮時蔬加意大利紅酒醋汁。令人驚艷的是吃完后盤底沒有多餘的汁水，吃得時候油醋汁恰到好處地輕沾在每一片沙律菜葉上，這讓人折服於法國菜的精細上。煙三文魚也很新鮮，肉質緊緻而且煙熏味不會太重。
Faux Filet de Bœuf (Roasted Beef Sirloin, with Mushroom Puree, Roasted Potatoes and Red Wine sauce) 西冷牛扒，配蘑菇茸，燴薯粒和紅酒汁Beef Sirloin was relatively thin cut so it made the slicing and dining experience so much easier. The beef flavor was not too strong yet tender enough given that the portion was attached to slight fat/tendon on the side, so it was a mixture of meat & fat, the optimal fulfillment when you are enjoying a lunch set at SOHO area for only about HKD180 per person.
牛扒不是厚牛扒的形態，反而是較一般的薄，所以切起來很容易。我們點了兩份medium-rare（3-4成熟），其中一塊牛扒邊上有一圈油脂，一刀下去剛好每一塊都可以連著少量的油脂，吃著牛肉和油脂混合的感覺很好，一百多塊在SOHO區，這算是相當不錯的牛扒了。
Spaghetti aux Fruits de Mer (Seafood Spaghetti - Shrimp, Mussel, Squid, Fish with white sauce) 海鮮意大利麵Spaghetti served in a warm plate demonstrates the dedication of higher end of dining experience at Jean-Paul Hevin. Adequate, light white wine sauce was hanging on the al dente spaghetti, the milky flavor blended well with the chunks of seafood.
海鮮雜拼有鮮蝦、青口、魷魚和鱈魚粒。白汁和之前的沙律一樣，分量剛剛好包著每根意粉，不會水汪汪的。而且不會膩，淡淡地奶油香和海鮮味很搭配，所以儘管意粉是包裝意粉而不是新鮮製作的，味道依然怡人。
Champignon à Bourré (Grilled Stuffed Jumbo Mushroom – Tomato concassée, parmesan with mixed leaves) 烤釀鮮番茄茸大棕菌，配Parmesan芝士和時蔬
The vegetarian choice for all the healthy eaters. I personally loved their jumbo mushroom as it was still juicy after grilling combined with the well-flavored, rich tomato paste all in one scoop. The portion might not be enough for a gentleman but certainly satisfying for a lady that is under her weight watch yet enjoys a fine dining experience on a weekday.
午市套餐的主菜一共只有三款，其中就有這款是為女士或素食者準備的。釀了番茄茸的棕菌好多汁，口感柔軟飽滿，也不會有一般蘑菇的泥騷味，很好吃。當然在分量上男士是絕對不夠的！
Hot Chocolate + Chocolate Gourmand (Espresso size of hot chocolate + slice of chocolate cake) 迷你熱朱古力配朱古力蛋糕Chocolat Chaud Parisien (Chic Classic hot chocolate made of cocoa from Central America, with spicy tones)
Classic hot chocolate which has the hidden undertone of milk chocolate and with a very subtle spicy tone which is barely noticed compared to other selections. Central America cocoa tends to have a slightly sweeter taste compared to the cocoa from other places.
The one thing that I love about Jean-Paul Hevin’s chocolatier: its subtle delicacy and simplicity and passion dedicated to chocolate. You can tell a lot of things from the service, interior decor, menu, location, and products. There are only two stores in Hong Kong so you can tell that they are not too concerned about their publicity like other well-known chocolatiers like La Maison du Chocolat or Godiva. The discovery of Jean-Paul Hevin chocolatier is like the first encounter with that elegant yet mysterious lady you get a glimpse at parties. She’s sitting at the corner enjoying her rose wine, you slowly approach her with a heartbeat and start talking to her, and you realize how simple and sincere one person can be. You’re glad that you came to the party, forget about the party rocks stars who wants everything from you.
Chocolat Chaud Nosy Be (A pure cocoa from Madagascar with tangy and red fruit tones)
Madagascar pure cocoa had this more down-to-earth chocolate flavor to it as not much cream/milk will be added and it preserves the integrity of the dark chocolate richness, the fruity tone was relatively more outstanding and it did elevate the overall flavor for the hot drink.
We ordered two different Chocolate cakes for the dessert combo yet they do not have official names yet as the waitress explained that they were new products yet to be named. First off, the Classic Dark Chocolate Cake is a layered cake of cream, ganache, sponge cake, and chocolate filling which was hard to tell which from which as whole experience was bites of rich cocoa flavor filling one’s sweet tooth cravings without much variation.
The other one was a Coffee Chocolate Cake – layered with chocolate ganache and sponge cake alternating, coffee cream mousse and sponge at the bottom. Distinctive layers created flavor and textural complexities which also enhanced the dark and milk chocolate richness and taste. Highly recommend this if you drop by Jean-Paul Hevin!我們選了Chocolat Chaud Parisien (Chic Classic hot chocolate made of cocoa from Central America, with spicy tones) 經典中美洲熱可可（帶少許刺激香料味）和Chocolat Chaud Nosy Be (A pure cocoa from Madagascar with tangy and red fruit tones) 純馬達加斯加熱可可（帶紅果香味）。至於兩款朱古力蛋糕由於是新產品，店員說暫時還沒有命名。一款味覺上帶來很純正的不同朱古力的混合口感和味道，入口苦澀回味甘甜，除了濃烈的黑朱古力味道以外沒有別的味道。另一款則很有五種不同層次，也相對更甜膩一點，脆皮餅底，而且回味有牛奶朱古力的味道。
Hot Chocolate + Chocolate Duo (Espresso size of hot chocolate + 1 macaroon + 2 pieces of chocolate almonds + 1 chocolate) 迷你熱朱古力配馬可龍和2顆朱古力杏仁、1粒朱古力
Chocolat Chaud Colombie (Pure cocoa from Colombia with roasted coffee tones – contains caffeine)
Coffee tone was rather strong which toned down the cocoa taste and it was relatively bitter compared to other hot chocolates as pure cocoa was used instead of milk or dark chocolate and the slight roasted tone was explicitly put forward as you have one sip.
Chocolat Chaud Anne d’Autriche (Cocoa from Venezuela with spicy and vanilla tones)
Spicy and vanilla undertone was quite subtle and cocoa taste was not as intense as the ones from Madagascar or Central America.
Crème Brûlée & Coffee MacaroonFine quality of macaroons, crispy macaroon shells with chewy texture on the inside while it was not overly sugary, flavor wise was ordinary but liked JPH’s macaroon’s more than Paul Lafayet’s for its slightly less sweet flavor and meltingly moist in the mouth.
Caraïbe – bitter ganache with fine cocoa from the Caribbean
Loved the robust bitter ganache which is rather refreshing compared to other chocolate truffles that promotes creaminess and richness. The rich, smooth ganache was certainly very mind-soothing for a weekday lunch break as it melts in your palate.
Gemme – Ganache macerated in smoked Chinese tea, an intense alliance with bitter chocolate
Amazed by this final note of chocolate, the smoky Chinese pu-er tea aroma was rather outstanding and everyone was in awe by the end for Jean-Paul Hevin’s innovation and creativity between China and Western fusion. The intense alliance with bitter chocolate proves how this profound chocolatier is dedicated to create
我們選了Chocolat Chaud Colombie (Pure cocoa from Colombia with roasted coffee tones – contains caffeine) 純哥倫比亞熱可可（咖啡味的）和Chocolat Chaud Anne d’Autriche (Cocoa from Venezuela with spicy and vanilla tones) 委內瑞拉熱可可（帶香料刺激和雲呢拿香 – 這些獨特的香味都沒有停留很久，一閃即過）。馬可龍杏仁脆餅我們選了Crème Brûlée (Cream and caramel biscuit with liquid caramel in chocolate ganache) 法式焦糖燉蛋味和咖啡味的：Coffee (Coffee biscuit cinnamon sprinkled and creamy coffee-flavored chocolate ganache)。馬可龍的甜度口感都蠻正宗的，味道也很好，就是中間的夾餡沒有那種煙韌抽絲的口感，但還是挺好吃的。另外朱古力也是可以選擇的，我們挑的兩顆是Caraïbe – bitter ganache with fine cocoa from the Caribbean來自加勒比可可製成的黑朱古力，濃度達65%, 和Gemme – Ganache macerated in smoked Chinese tea, an intense alliance with bitter chocolate，非常特別的有陳年普洱茶味的黑朱古力，衍生出微弱的煙燻果香。
The Gang will come back for more. Jean-Paul Hevin is like the mistress that you have to visit from time to time to sooth your mind with some delicate French culinary experience, without hurting your wallets too much.
總體來說，這家餐廳的服務挺好，即使繁忙的時候也能勉強維繫法式標準，另外食物的味道讓我們驚訝，是絕對可以再次光顧的餐廳。
Gobay Food Knowledge Corner:
法國菜單的用詞:
“Tomato Concassée”是法國菜專用語，指將帶皮的番茄連果肉連籽切得很碎很均勻。Tomato Concassée a French cuisine specific term, means tomatoes that have been peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped, often used as garnish.
”Velouté”是特指濃湯，而清湯則在法國餐廳里以”Consomé”表示。
Velouté is the French term for a soup traditionally thickened with egg yolks, butter and cream, though it is now used loosely to refer to soups that are thickened exclusively with butter and/or cream.
“Fruits de Mer”字面的意思是海裡的果實，也就是海神賜給人類豐盛的海產。
French for seafood platter as it is a seafood dish of raw and cooked shellfish served cold on a platter or usually on bed of ice.
張貼
