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2020-11-08
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We came for their roast chicken, as recommended by many friends.My starter, the pate, was very good indeed. Tightly packed meats with foie gras, firm pastry and a jelly. Very much in the classic style.The chicken? Well, not bad. Not quite as good as expected. Comparable to the one at Belon. Just a different approach.Using "Three Yellow" chicken, a local produce. Well, good decision. Live chicken is always good. Just different from, say, a poulet de Bresse.The chicken was first presented whole,
My starter, the pate, was very good indeed. Tightly packed meats with foie gras, firm pastry and a jelly. Very much in the classic style.
The chicken? Well, not bad. Not quite as good as expected. Comparable to the one at Belon. Just a different approach.
Using "Three Yellow" chicken, a local produce. Well, good decision. Live chicken is always good. Just different from, say, a poulet de Bresse.
The chicken was first presented whole, looking perfectly browned with crispy skin. Then it is returned to the kitchen. We thought it was to be carved right away. But it took a long time for the carved pieces to re-emerge. Judging from the blood in the leg socket when the carcasse is examined, this is their approach. When first presented, the chicken was perfectly roasted outside but the thighs remained rare. Back in the kitchen, the thighs (and presumably the legs) were taken off and they were then cooked further. The carved bird was then brought back out.
At Belon, a green stuffing (presumably herb and a neutral tasting cream cheese such as ricotta) was used between the breasts and the skin, to protect it against the heat, so the breasts will take almost as long as the thighs to cook.
I think the results are quite similar. Frankly I think the Belon one has a slight edge. But their chef has left, and some may think to give it a miss for now.
At 988 dollars a bird that is a bit on the steep side. This is somewhat made up for by an accompanying rice and veg.
The dining room looks nice and laid back.
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