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2020-11-21
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This is my second visit to Kashiwaya after one year’s time and it has improved a lot since my first visit. Honestly, kaiseki is not really my thing. In the world of kaiseki, people are looking for tradtional japanese cuisines and beautiful tablewares. Food is usually served in small portion and placed delicately, decent tablewares are used and the serving sequence are strictly standardized.They change the menu in a monthly basis. By the time I went for dinner in October, they were serving the me
This is my second visit to Kashiwaya after one year’s time and it has improved a lot since my first visit. Honestly, kaiseki is not really my thing. In the world of kaiseki, people are looking for tradtional japanese cuisines and beautiful tablewares. Food is usually served in small portion and placed delicately, decent tablewares are used and the serving sequence are strictly standardized.They change the menu in a monthly basis. By the time I went for dinner in October, they were serving the menu of ”神無月”. In Japan, October is the month that all the gods are leaving their shrines and congregated annually in Izumo Taisha (出雲大社) in Shimane ken (島根縣). As such, October is also called “神在月” in Izumo shi (出雲市) as all the gods were gathered there during the month.
The plating of food in Kashiwaya is very delicate. They used a lot of red leaves to decorate the dish and to show an autumn vibe. In terms of food, they put a lot of seasonal ingredients into the menu. Overall, it is an enjoyable dinner, and plus, the menu is on a buy-one-get-one free promotion if you got the right credit card. It makes this 2-starred michelin restaurant even more approachable.
先付: 車海老 魚子醬 指橘 水菜 黃菊 紅菊
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🥢先付: 車海老 魚子醬 指橘 水菜 黃菊 紅菊
Sakizuke (先付) represents appetizer in kaiseki cuisines. It is usually the first dish to serve in the sequence.
The saltiness and umami of caviar perfectly balanced with the sour taste of the finger lime. Kuruma ebi (車海老), on the other hand, is being a rather silence carrier and let caviar and finger lime shine in this dish.
煮物椀: 清酒鹽燒竹簽魚, 松茸, 小蕪菁, 胡蘿蔔, 青菜軸, 柚子, 菊花
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煮物椀: 清酒鹽燒竹簽魚, 松茸, 小蕪菁, 胡蘿蔔, 青菜軸, 柚子, 菊花
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🍲 煮物椀: 清酒鹽燒竹簽魚, 松茸, 小蕪菁, 胡蘿蔔, 青菜軸, 柚子, 菊花
Right after the appetizer, the soup, “Nimonowan” (煮物椀), would then be served. In kaiseki, nimonowan might also be called “御椀” or “椀物”.
In high end kaiseki restaurants, you could find the bowls that used for nimonowan are usually wooden and are coated by a layer of urushi (漆), which you can also refer them as shikki (漆器) or lacquerware. They were traditional japanese crafts that have thousand years of history.
Other than bowls, people would also use this technique on other delicate items such as chopsticks, fountain pens and boxes.
Other than the ingredients mentioned above, the soup is made with kombu (昆布) and most importantly, katsuobushi (鰹節).
There are several kinds of katsuobushi you can find in the market, which are 荒節, 枯れ節 and 本枯れ節. In which, the most expensive one would be 本枯れ節, as it got the most procedures throughout it's production.
It took around 6 months to produce a piece of 本枯れ節. After the katsuo is killed, fillets are cut and bones are removed, the fillet would then be cooked, dried and smoked. At this stage, we could get 荒節 from it.
Then on top of it, the workers would dry-aged it with mould, and put it under sunshine. 枯れ節 would be ready after these two procedures.
本枯れ節 is simply a product from 枯れ節 after repeating these two steps with several months. Meanwhile, umami would increase from time to time. The longer the dry-aging process, say one year or two, the better 本枯れ節 you get.
造身: 劍先烏賊, 中拖羅, 石鯛, 白玉梅醬, 昆布煮醬油
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🐟 造身: 劍先烏賊, 中拖羅, 石鯛, 白玉梅醬, 昆布煮醬油
Tsukuri (造身) consists of sashimi style raw fish, thinly sliced. Sashimi selected for the night were fresh enough, yet not surprising.
八寸: 市松真蒸, 油揚菊花, 炸銀杏, 鹽揚甘鯛海老, 日本菠菜配白玉菇, 紅葉麩, 鯖魚棒壽司, 糖煮蕯摩芋
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✨🥢 八寸: 市松真蒸, 油揚菊花, 炸銀杏, 鹽揚甘鯛海老, 日本菠菜配白玉菇, 紅葉麩, 鯖魚棒壽司, 糖煮蕯摩芋 (Highlight dish)
Hassun (八寸), also known as the seasonal platter, usually has the most stunning outlook among all dishes. Typically, there would be one kind of sushi, which is saba (鯖) today, served together with several side dishes. Saba was marinated with kombu, and the sushi was surprisingly good and full of umami. Saba sushi from high-end restaurants seldom disappoints me.
Amadai (甘鯛) fried with fish scales, is another highlight of this dish. Amadai is a fish that doesn’t get a lot of character and flavor, hence, you can cook it any way you wanted.
Usually, you don’t expect to see any scale on the fish you gonna eat. However, this way to fry amadai, is actually a common way to cook it. This piece of fried amadai with scales is crispy and seasoned to the right point.
燒物: 灸燒和牛, 燒茄子, 酢橘, 唐辛子, 零余子, 花穗紫蘇
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✨🥢 燒物: 灸燒和牛, 燒茄子, 酢橘, 唐辛子, 零余子, 花穗紫蘇 (Highlight dish)
Yakimono (燒物), here comes the meat dish. We got grilled wagyu served with daikon oroshi (蘿蔔泥).
The sourness of sauce and freshness of daikon perfectly balanced with wagyu and minimised the greasiness of this dish.
The only problem with this dish was the portion. I wish I can get more slices of wagyu!
鉢物: 菱蟹蟹肉羹, 甘荀魚腐, 炸菊葉
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鉢物: 菱蟹蟹肉羹, 甘荀魚腐, 炸菊葉
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🌟🍲 鉢物: 菱蟹蟹肉羹, 甘荀魚腐, 炸菊葉 (Dish of the night)
For no reason I just like this dish a lot. A warm thick soup with fish curds to remind you that it is almost the end of the meal.
You got crab meat with every sip of thick soup. Fish curd, on the other hand, brought this dish with some texture, very satisfying.
食事: 松茸蛋花三葉草雜炊
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🍲 食事: 松茸蛋花三葉草雜炊
和菓子配抹茶
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🥢 和菓子配抹茶
This piece of wagashi made with two chestnuts. One on the outside while the other in the inside, soaked with brandy in low temperature.
The way the made it let the alcohol evaporates and make sure only the brandy taste left.
木屋正酒造 而今 八反錦火入 純米吟釀
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🍶 木屋正酒造 而今 八反錦火入 純米吟釀
Jikon is one of the very famous sake brands both in Japan and Hong Kong. They got a series of sakes made with different brewery rice. This yellow bottle tonight we had was made with Hattennishiki (八反錦) and pasteurized with heat.
It tastes better in cold rather than room temperature. Tasted like soda water at the first sip. Not much alcoholic taste and a rather refreshing one. Its fruitiness served well with kaiseki cuisine.
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