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2018-07-01
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After waiting an extra 5 months, the most highly anticipating restaurant opening of the year is finally here. I'm talking about Ecriture, a fine dining French restaurant from Le Comptoir Group who's also behind culinary gems like Bibo, The Ocean, Hotshot and Djapa.Housed on the 26th floor of HQueens in the heart of Central, Ecriture along with Arbor are two of the brightest young stars in the city's fine dining scene this year. Ironically, both of them happened to be housed in the very same buil
Housed on the 26th floor of HQueens in the heart of Central, Ecriture along with Arbor are two of the brightest young stars in the city's fine dining scene this year. Ironically, both of them happened to be housed in the very same building. 
Before we touched on our dining experience at Ecriture, it's important to know who's working behind their kitchen. The man on a mission here is executive chef Maxime Gilbert, the former chef de cuisine at Amber who is also the protégé of world renowned chef Yannick Alleno. Chef Gilbert cut his teeth at a number of Alléno's fine-dining establishments including La Grande Table Française (Marrakech) and the legendary Le Meurice (Paris) so it's safe to say that he knows a little something about modern French cooking.
As there's only one tasting menu ($1488) being served in Ecriture at the moment, we went straight into our amuse bouche once we decided on our wine selection. Our first nibble was a potato croquette with sour cream filling topped by caviar.
Next was an elegant serving of crispy pumpkin biscuit with pumpkin purée and pumpkin cream, a tasty "wafer" made with tiny Japanese fish topped off with herbs and vinegar, and last but not least, a steamed bun with seafood sauce (hoisin?) and a bit of ginger. That's quite an impressive collection of contrasting flavors all packed into these bite-sized nibbles.
Amuse bouche
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This dish reminded me a lot of a pike conger dish I had at Florilège in Tokyo which had the same visual effects and equally impressive results. The dashi jelly provided perfect depth of flavors to complement the sweetness of the spot prawns while the purple onion added lovely acidity to the mix. That was brilliant.
Spot prawns with dashi jelly and purple onion topped by beetroot wafer
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Deep-fried Hokkaido scallop with nori and black truffle
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Tender slices of abalone was then served with crispy Galicia beef ham, eggplant, grapefruit and a delicious abalone-liver sauce with Dijon mustard.
Poached abalone with Galicia beef ham, eggplant, grapefruit and a delicious abalone-liver sauce
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We first had the fillet accompanied by a yuzu-seafood purée topped with dried scallop in a red wine and vegetable sauce.
Japanese kinki three ways
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The second part of this kinki dish featured the most prized part of the fish, the cheek which was served with the liver and homemade ravioli with gorgonzola cheese filling. A flavorful broth made of olive oil, tomato, lemon juice and the bones of the kinki added good depth of flavors to the dish.
Finally, the tail. Our server told us to simply eat it like a piece of "fried chicken". As instructed, I quickly picked it up with my hand and finished it off. This was pretty tasty. The hint of lime zest really provided some nice citrus notes to the mix.
Meat course was savory lamb fillet and chop from Adreyon, served with in-season morel mushrooms, cabbage and a reduced lamb jus. Our server explained that they only use baby lambs which have been around for 20 so days and drinking nothing but milk, this in order to preserve their succulent texture (which explains the meat is so light in color).This was nice and gamey with the perfect proportion of fat. I'm not a huge fan of lamb to be honest but if I was going to have lamb once a year, this is THE one I want.
Lamb fillet and chop from Adreyon with in-season morel mushrooms, cabbage
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A scoop of sake ice cream was served on a bed of silky jelly made with sake lees along with lime, lemon, orange and grapefruit. Very refreshing and clean flavors all around.
Sake ice cream with jelly and citrus fruits
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spicy cacao custard, mango chutney, peanut ice-cream, peanut and hazelnut crumble
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Food continued to keep coming. First, there's a kouign-amann sandwiched with sour cream.
That was followed by some Japanese strawberries sliced at table side.
And just when I thought we were done, our server came over and revealed the best kept secret around here - There's a chocolate-cognac tart hidden inside the decorative box on our table. This one even had my name written on it!
I have been spoiled with some really good food the past 10 days. After dining at HAKU, à nu retrouvez-vous and Arbor within a short span, I thought it's going to take a lot for Ecriture to blow me away but wow me they did. Not only were tonight's dishes innovative (spot prawn and scallop dish came to mind), they did it with very precise cooking. Also full marks for the tableside preparations which have added a special element to this dining experience. I know old-school tableside service is making a comeback (Fancy restaurants in France never stop doing it all these years.) and personally, I am all for it.
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