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2009-07-30
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Let me just say I have no offense to those who attended the pig feast 全豬宴 organized by KC at 季季紅a few week ago. I called all of us "豬"朋 only because I strongly believed that every attendee got to have a strong affinity for pigs! Otherwise, why would one go through all the hassles to go to 屯門藍地, a place that I haven’t even heard of until the restaurant 季季紅 got famous and endorsed by gourmet celebrity? It got to be their passion for porky deliciousness! Our goal of this dinner was very clear:
Let me just say I have no offense to those who attended the pig feast 全豬宴 organized by KC at 季季紅a few week ago. I called all of us "豬"朋 only because I strongly believed that every attendee got to have a strong affinity for pigs! Otherwise, why would one go through all the hassles to go to 屯門藍地, a place that I haven’t even heard of until the restaurant 季季紅 got famous and endorsed by gourmet celebrity? It got to be their passion for porky deliciousness!
Our goal of this dinner was very clear: we wanted to sample the stuffed whole suckling pig 蝦禾米乳香豬, the signature dish of the restaurant. When two little roasted piggies were strolled to our two tables, our excitements were probably just as obvious as admired eyes from adjacent tables. The amount of camera exposures of the piggies was no less than those o靚模 at the book fair when the manager swiftly cut open the suckling pig with his proficient hands and a pair of scissors. The crackling sound of the skins was so crisp and you could “feel” the thinness of the skin just by the sound.
When the dissected suckling pig descended on to our table, I couldn’t behold my urge and grabbed a piece of the breast meat right away. Interestingly enough, the texture was not uniform: the skin on the side, attached to quite a thick layer of meat, was quite chewy and sticky (黐牙). The center skin, on the other hand, was crispy like chips with just enough fat underneath. The meat wasn’t dry by any means but it also wasn’t a melt-in-your-mouth rendition. I haven’t tried the 金陵乳豬@ 君怡閣 but the general consensus seemed to be that the version at 君怡閣was superior, albeit more expensive.
Of course if one were like myself who was not afraid to look like a barbarian and chowed down the pig’s head (ok, I did share!), then there was no regret for ordering this stuffed pig. The head meat was absolutely succulent and moist, filled with fatty goodness and some crunchy soft cartilages of the pig’s ears. To me this certainly was the highlight, more so than the stuffed rice (蝦禾米炒飯). I was expecting more pork aroma or oil contributed from the pig, but the rice was dominated with eggs and dried shrimp. That said, it was still a delicious fried rice on its own.
After the suckling pig, most of us were already half full. Arriving next was the soup 蝴蝶腩白菜豬肺湯 which tasted standard, much like a regular 例湯 of any neighborhood restaurant. I will give credit to the piles of 湯渣 which were soft and tender. 燒腩肉, another signature item of 季季紅, had an appealing look with alternating layers of fat and lean meat. The “sesame” skin (芝麻皮) was crunchy and the fatty layers were juicy and moist, but like a lot of roast pork out there, the lean meat was still stringy and a little dry. There are just too many restaurants out there that can make good 燒腩肉, so the version at 季季紅doesn’t really standout.
Perhaps 季季紅 is really a pork specialist, as the roast goose 燒鵝 we ordered was quite tough and firm without much flavor. 蒜片浸莧菜 and 翠玉瓜魚肚 were refreshing after all the heavy meat dishes, and both tasted exactly what you expect and very much like what you would get at say Maxim. After a period of birthday celebration, the forgotten 蓮藕餅 arrived hot and meaty, though I could hardly detect any lotus roots in the patties. May be I was too full at that point that my tastebuds could no longer function properly.
Overall, I found 季季紅to be quite a standard neighborhood restaurant (街坊酒樓) with a few specialties like the stuffed pigs to try to draw attention. Other offerings are quite average and consider the location it is hard to become a designation place unless you are a pork aficionado. The dinner was still extremely enjoyable because of the time we spent together and the celebrations we had in between. Although I met this group of friends only 3 months ago, I feel like we share the same interests and passions and even know about each other’s food preferences as if we have known each other for a long time. Hence my title of “久”友 is the feeling I got from our dinner gatherings so far. I give an OK face to the food of this restaurant, but my feeling to my friends and the overall experience is certainly smiley face X 100~
張貼
