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2014-04-25
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Of all the places I've visited in Hong Kong during a recent trip, Tai O is probably my favorite destination of all time. To say it is the "Venice" of the East is a bit of a misnomer and understatement, and despite the fact that it is quite heavily visited, it is still somewhat off the radar for international visitors who are less adventurous.雞蛋仔 is one of the iconic street food snacks that many Hong Kongers who grew up in the 70s and 80s can relate to. In that fact very group (I'm part of that)
Of all the places I've visited in Hong Kong during a recent trip, Tai O is probably my favorite destination of all time. To say it is the "Venice" of the East is a bit of a misnomer and understatement, and despite the fact that it is quite heavily visited, it is still somewhat off the radar for international visitors who are less adventurous.雞蛋仔 is one of the iconic street food snacks that many Hong Kongers who grew up in the 70s and 80s can relate to. In that fact very group (I'm part of that) was probably the last batch to witness and experience that old time flavor, and how integral food was to growing up, culture, and how crazy (and sad) it is that such flavors are virtually extinct or becoming very hard to find.
With the demise of the 雞蛋仔 push cart vendor in Tai Hang that has shocked even expats around the world, you have to venture out to Tai O for that original flavor.
There are at least 2 or 3 other vendors of 雞蛋仔 in Tai O fishing village, but I settled on this guy 大澳炭燒雞蛋仔叔叔. There is another vendor selling the same thing who also attracts crowds (and he kind of looks like Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation a tad bit) but this guy here is by far more popular (maybe because he is situated on the main street (吉慶街)
You can't miss him....there's the iconic sign, and his signature shades. To Westerners he might look like a character from Keanu Reeve's THE MATRIX movie. Or maybe he looks like a character from the really old days (kung fu movies) but wearing shades. Maybe he has a saxophone in the back with a trench coat and a hat, kind of like the "rebirth of cool" jazz (Miles Davis era) from the 1950s. Either way, this "cat" can rock to making killer 雞蛋仔.
On weekends, expect a larger number of crowds, and thus even a short line can seem like eternity. If you are patient, then the rewards are great. With every passing moment, you wonder when it will be your turn, and when you get to the front, it is picture and video taking time, and it is such a pleasure to which this cool cat grilled up a pre mixed egg batter into a cast iron type mold, and heat both sides over charcoal. Forget Jiro Dreams of Sushi, it's "雞蛋仔叔叔 dreams of 雞蛋仔".
When you try to take pictures or film, his dog, should he notice, will come out and bark. Don't worry, he's friendly...the dog just doesn't like pictures/video taking. Perhaps that is also reason why the owner wears shades.
It is quite hard to describe the excellence that is of the signature product. It has all the right things going for it...for one thing a slight crispy/roasty exterior that no electric heater will replicate, and an almost sponge cake like fluffy interior. Visually it is stunning, and the fragrance is gorgeous to say the least, and the batter mix pretty much perfect. I cannot say whether this compares to what I had in my childhood from a push cart vendor, but it is the best I've had anywhere, no doubt the other vendors can come close.
Such a simple delight, yet so wonderful and perfectly executed.
Yet you cannot find this anymore on Hong Kong island, let alone North America for a number of reasons.
The owner/cool cat shades wearing vendor is just doing this to make ends meet...there is no much in the way of career growth or huge commerce opportunities in the fishing village, so his business is reliant heavily on visitors from elsewhere, and I'm sure he can live fairly comfortably (and simply).
Either way, I highly, highly, highly recommend this vendor and the 雞蛋仔.
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