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6-min walk from Exit A3, Wan Chai MTR Station
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Throwback visit during Kiu’s Kitchen soft opening in early October. Helmed by Hop Sze former Sous-Chef Wah Gor and his wife Gill Jeh, loyal patrons of Hop Sze can once again enjoy their all-time favourites. Signature 玫瑰露火焗蝦 to start. The aged rose liquor was incredibly aromatic. Prawns were done just right. Would have been better had the texture of the prawns been bouncier. 韮菜小炒皇碧綠𧎚皮餃 was a wow for me. Dumpling wrappings were deep fried to perfection and the flavour profile of the fillings was intriguing. A dish that I would highly recommend ordering. 雞湯花雕蒸馬友 Threadfin was fat and tender, swimming in a pool of luscious concoction of shaoxing wine and chicken butter.極品茶皇雞百花炸釀蝦多士 Too thick for my liking 花雕雞油蒸肉蟹伴水晶粉 薑葱焗龍蝦煎腸粉 Loved this. Lobster was done just right. Cheung fun was wok Hei packed. 焗少爺豬扒飯Overall skilful execution beautiful presentation from start to finish that exceeded my expectations and previous visits to Wah Gor’s training grounds.
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近日不少報章都有刊登有關灣仔新店「嬌姐小廚」嘅報導，每篇例別講起嬌姐夫婦與「合時小廚」嘅淵源。XO仔自認人面唔夠廣，由「合時」紅到開分店，到最近會所化埋仍未有緣一試，月初都係托靚靚替腳auntie鴻福，先有機會搭人張大枱體驗吓咋。嬌姐走咗出黎開新檔，自然好多熟客爭住捧場，據悉要等到蛇年先有位，似乎去到邊都繼續一位難求喎！日光日白下，藍灰嘅門面唔係咁起眼，要天黑影先突出啲。用餐大堂光線充裕，無奈散枱擺得勁密，午市滿座仲嘈過酒樓，服務生唔知係未上手定係發老脾呢，換碟、加酒水等功夫都要自己黎囉！中餐廳午市同晚市都係同一個餐牌，為怕到時先叫乜都冇，AA制嘅九男女飯焗早已訂好菜單。花雕鴨舌凍（$198/六件）：晶瑩剔透嘅啫喱冷盤厚而彈身，睇得出每件中間都有件鴨舌同妃子，連魚子醬食落口，魚子醬嘅鮮濃似乎搶哂所有味，唔講真係食唔出有花雕妃子香。百花蝦多士（$68/件）：蝦多士一碟過跟意頭好好嘅壽星公上，睇落好有氣勢，但同時難免貴客會對比蝦多士及紅蘿蔔嘅色澤。啡啡嘅蝦多士第一啖已食得出千年油嘅油膱味，百花蝦膠除咗欠缺爽彈之外，亦奪走咗蝦隻原有嘅鮮甜。最弊就係入面勁多蝦殼，失敗透！口水雲吞伴皮蛋：此餸因內含花生，小肥唔可以食，不過聽到席上兩位SM長輩直言阿茂菜式九唔搭八，食材亂溝一通，完全唔掂當！翡翠蝦皮餃（$180/四件）：菠菜羮底本身柔潤滑溜，芳香清甜，蝦皮餃咬落都幾爽彈架，餃中嘅菜菜亦相當脆嫩，不過敗筆在於蝦膠即使冇炸過卻有陣強烈嘅膱味。。。花雕雞油蒸馬友（時價）：以雞油蒸出嘅馬友魚肉軟滑就夠軟滑，散發出嘅花雕香都好芬芳，唯一魚魚唔夠熱，蒸魚大忌也！濃湯沙白豆苗：原煲上嘅浸菜熱力十足，湯底濃甜暖胃，豆苗都好軟腍，沙白肥美冇沙，係咁多味之中煮得較好嘅一道。膏蟹蒸肉餅：肉餅以原隻膏蟹拆咗黎蒸，賣相夠哂睇頭！厚厚嘅肉餅唔算實，但亦談不上鬆嫩，精髓係膏蟹嘅鮮味滲咗入啲豬肉度，實有點精之效。焗少爺豬扒飯煎雞蛋（四位起；每位$85）：焗豬扒飯用上勁多嘅芝士焗製，並由專人負責分。可能招牌名菜俾人讚得太激啦，大家嘅期望過高，所以失望好大，長輩們啲評價堅狠！如相所示，啲蛋蛋煎到熟哂，冇一隻流心，硬咗嘅蛋黃只會增添嚡口；細佬碗中件豬扒又硬又實，毫不鬆爽，二筒uncle之後靜靜雞話佢嗰碗仲玩野，淨係得舊豬骨；飯底又濕又軟，少爺邊洗食軟飯架，叫「姑爺飯」就差唔多，結論竟然係大X樂個焗豬扒飯好食同抵食得多！灣仔人氣中菜館「嬌姐小廚」環境光鮮但坐得比較迫挾，預訂嘅招牌菜講真驚多過喜，質量偏低，冇一味推介得落手，服務及餐飲都有好大嘅進步空間囉！
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Diehard 合時 fans would no doubt by now have tried 嬌姐’s new venture, taking over the space left by 老巴剎, with a Private room seating up to 20.With 權哥 now relocated to Central, 嬌姐’s hubby 華哥 (who apparently knows exactly where to get all the best ingredients) has stepped up as executive chef; keeping the same menu more or less as before.Have visited numerous times since the initial soft opening in October and appreciated 嬌姐’s personal touches (eg the cool sake decanters) and the progressive improvements (eg walls are now padded to keep down the noise). Here’s what we mostly recently had.Welcome snack: 筍碧綠蝦皮餃- deep fried dumpling stuffed with 蝦膠 and vegetables 韭菜花銀魚小炒王- surprisingly good; all ingredients were fresh and balanced.椒鹽鮮魷昆布海草生熟牛皮豬踭湯煙燻乳鴿剁椒蒸馬友- new tryout which we were highly recommended to try. Personally I preferred chicken oil to 剁椒 but only cos I didn’t take spicy. 馳名茶皇雞清湯崩沙腩薑蔥焗肉蟹+煎腸粉生炒糯米飯- above and beyond my expectations. Had several helpings. 特色鮑魚麵In summary: 嬌姐’s husband and wife team seems to have successfully transferred the popularity and waiting lists of Sai Wan Ho to Tai Hang; the all time favorites are still favorites.
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新店位於灣仔，聽說是用「合時小廚」部份班底（除咗總廚權哥）。之前沒機會試合時小廚，網上廣告又話訂位要一個月前，於是跟著推廣去試吓。二人枱在週日當天數小時前訂己有位。午市茶位 $12桂花蓮藕餅（四件$160）蓮藕餅味道調教適宜，豬肉柔潤是源自混入的鯪魚肉。蓮藕粒增加口感，配上喼汁好味。材料一般但收$160，性價比很低。百花釀蝦多士（每件$68）蝦肉原隻釀在多士上….. 麵包糠薄薄一片的裹在外。不是「百花釀」嗎？我哋預咗係蝦膠加蝦肉加多士的多重口感，食落啲蝦好似在食蝦餃噤，很無奈！醬汁亦只是熟悉的泰式甜辣醬，不是什麼秘製的。每件$68…. 價錢泊住米芝連食府。沙嗲芥蘭炒牛肉 $138牛肉入口即感到柔軟度是經過「處理」的，肉質既不鮮也不嫰。 芥蘭新鮮是基本的。沙嗲味不濃，只有後勁的辣，整個菜式欠沙嗲風味。馳名生炒糯米飯 $185糯米飯上桌時還有水氣，未夠乾身。飯並非軟糯黏口，而是有少少粒粒分明。鴛鴦腸、臘肉和冬菇刻意切成細粒，同米飯混為一體，令口感豐富。據悉餐廳是用「先蒸後炒」的省功夫方法，非由生米炒到熟的「生炒」，可能就是水氣未除的主因。最失望是連傳統在糯米飯上放的花生也欠奉。奉送甜品南瓜芋頭西米露欣賞甜品不會太甜。留意女洗手間只有一格，更要與員工共用。可能推廣做得好，菜式水準同預期出現落差，連菜名與實際烹調手法亦不一致，價錢更是偏貴！試過就算。
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訂咗位，但最終去唔到，當日下午已通知店舖取消，並且向店舖道歉，因為臨急臨忙取消訂位。但店舖的回覆： 1) 你係應該早啲通知我哋！你今日先通知我哋張枱冇人要2) 所以喺日本人係唔肯俾香港人訂枱，就係因為成日到時先通知取消「做香港人就要硬食？」
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