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2018-06-26
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Summary: Great steak (not exorbitantly priced either), but nothing else was above-average. Other dishes seem rooted in the 1980’s or 90s. Try somewhere else for your meat fixMy first taste of “real” steak was something like 10 years ago at the Wolfgang’s Steakhouse in New York. Life-changing is bit strong, but not really – it opened my eyes to what a perfectly cooked piece of beef can taste like. Juicy and tender but with an unreplicable savoury beefiness, to go along with all the fat and flavou
My first taste of “real” steak was something like 10 years ago at the Wolfgang’s Steakhouse in New York. Life-changing is bit strong, but not really – it opened my eyes to what a perfectly cooked piece of beef can taste like. Juicy and tender but with an unreplicable savoury beefiness, to go along with all the fat and flavour from the broiling/searing. Just incredible.
Was very excited to try it again, especially since I don’t eat steak very often these days. Upon arriving, you can see how they’ve tried to emulate the NY steakhouse feel, from the separate bar and the TV suspended above it, all the way to the gauzy lighting and diner-style porcelain plates. Atmospheric if not particularly exciting.
We tried the following appetizers which were also not particularly exciting:
Wolfgang’s Crabcakes
Wolfgang’s Salad
Beverly Hills Chopped Salad
Personally I liked the chopped salad, but the others thought it was excessively chopped… you actually eat it more like rice than a salad. The crabcakes were also fine, though don’t expect anything apart from the bare minimum of what a crabcake should be. They even throw in the mandatory barebones tartar sauce.
The Wolfgang salad was miserable. 5 stacked up hunks of iceberg lettuce (another anachronism) cradling nothing more than chopped tomatoes, onions and a few shrimp bits. This is a salad that would have been boring even in 1995, and 20 years later it’s an antique that has not aged well
For mains we shared a 4 person Porterhouse steak.
4 person Porterhouse
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No question that this was done well – cooked perfectly rare, the meat juicy and rich, and the flavour was intense. That said, I was kind of surprised that the steak wasn’t very warm, even though the plate it was served on was sizzling. Not sure if it was rested too long and then put on a hot plate? Confused. Anyway, no question that it was delicious, if a bit tepid.
This brings us to another depressing part the of the meal: the sides. Like any serious steakhouse, the steak is priced just for meat – nothing else is included, so we ordered a bunch of sides:
Cottage Fries (FYI these are more like giant potato chips than fries)
Grilled Onions
Grilled Mushrooms
Steak Fries
Lobster Mac and Cheese
Of these, only the Mac and Cheese was good, and the rest… mediocre or terrible. Amazingly, the steak fries (which are just thick cut French fries) were horrible! Dry all the way through and rock-hard, they had the texture of a fried, condensed sandcake. The manager kindly refunded the fries and told us that because they use imported Idaho potatoes, if the potatoes are out-of-season, the quality of the fries suffers. Hardly an excuse obviously, but glad they resolved it without any fuss. I can’t imagine not being able to recommend fries at a steakhouse, but don’t order this when potatoes are out of season (?Whenever that is?).
The onions and cottage fries were also non-descript and can’t be recommended, though I did like how they included shiitake mushrooms along with the typical buttons in the grilled mushrooms. Believe me when I say this restaurant is so stodgy that these shiitake mushrooms represented the most adventurous addition to any dish we tried. The mac and cheese in fairness is quite delicious, though not sure how the lobster improves the dish, apart from its price.
We had the cheesecake at the end, and yes, while traditional to a fault, it does stand the test of time. If you like NY style cheesecake, this is a great representation of it.
Overall, Wolfgang’s gets the steak more or less right, which is obviously key. However, I think there are enough good steak places in HK that you don’t have to put up with middling sides and overpriced 1980’s salads which only diminish the experience. We shouldn’t eat that much beef anyway, but when we do, Wolfgang’s shouldn’t be that place.
张贴
