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2010-06-04
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..... As previously mentioned it had suddenly occurred to me whilst eating at Romankan 1 day - that since the term KATSU in Japanese language is derived from English or French, its meaning intended to describe a Cutlet of meat rather than the deep frying method using panko crumbs, the origin of Katsu and Tonkatsu is therefore adopted from Western cooking indeed. As such, Western-Japanised and Cafe-Styled Tonkatsu's such as those served at Romankan Yokohama or say a Pokka Cafe, are in fact the o
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KATSU SANDWICH (ヒレカツサンド)-
This is made with white loaf bread of western origin too. The Pork Katsu was ok good in this instance, it was hammer flattened until tender, yet largely missing pork taste. The sandwich bread is soft but uninteresting. Mixed together with tonkatsu sauce as well as mustard, this sandwich makes for a good $68 +10% afternoon tea option.
MINCE KATSU - (メンチカツ, 御新香, 御飯, お味噌汁付）
When ordering this, I specifically pointed with my finger to the staff that we only wanted a 'singular piece' Mince Katsu to try, which was $40 and its because we wanted only an afternoon tea rather than a full on dinner. Out came a Full Mince-Katsu Meal Set with rice, pickles and miso soup for $138, forced upon us by the restaurant. If I wanted a full set I would have ordered a proper ribeye tonkatsu set rather than a minced version of virtually same price. The soup seemed different from the last 2 times I had it at the K-11 Branch, as instead of a pork Tonjiru soup, this was a normal meatless miso version. This carried a nearly perfect batter - it was crunchy, flakily pointy and not oily. A lot better than the commercial grade cheapo panko version one receives at Tonkichi (in fact, all of the new tonkatsu restaurants in HK have a better higher-end bread crumb than Tonkichi's domestic style one, but no one seems to care for unknown reasons.) Tonkichi fries everything more consistently though somewhat! Its also the reason why I still think there are no really top quality Tonkatsu shops in HK, as they all fall short somehow.
The minced patty in this instance was ok-good but not impressive. It was very dry, and it also carries a fair bit of tendons and fat inside, some largish pieces needed to be spitted out. Perhaps in hindsight, I was fortunate to have ordered the food-processor minced meat katsu rather than their full muscle tonkatsu's, as I can't imagine this piece of muscle not becoming a bit tough - unless its pulvarised into mince first. The Japanese pearl rice in this set was good quality grain but slightly undercooked, a bit hard and served to us fairly cold
HOT MUSTARD AND SAUCES -
-The what resembled English hot mustard is made from powder - it carries that unattractive bitterness and pungency. I suspect this was mixed from its powderised form with water rather than the correct white vinegar, as that would have cancelled out some of the overwhelming characters of a yellow mustard powder. It overpowered rather than compliment the Katsu items.
-The Tonkatsu sauce was actually good when tasted on its own, having a refreshing fruitiness and vegetables taste, but it also carried too much worchestire sauce, so it became too acidic to suit the tonkatsu, and there is no roasted sesame.
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I PERSONALLY FEEL THAT 梅林 BAIRIN CARRIES THE MOST LATENT POTENTIAL OF ALL TONKATSU SHOPS IN HK. BIG TEETHING PROBLEMS ARE TO BE FIXED, WHICH ARE THEIR BIGGEST PITFALL - IN TERMS OF MEAT QUALITY SELECTION, PREPARATION, SAUCES, BAD MUSTARD, AS WELL AS COOKING INCONSISTENCY.
TONKICHI IS A LESS SOPHISTICATED TYPE OF SHOP OVERALLL, PARTICULARLY ITS PANKO QUALITY WHICH IS MUCH EASIER TO FRY CONSISTENTLY TO A NON-OILY STATE. IF ONLY TONKICHI COULD CHANGE THEIR BREAD CRUMB AND OTHER SMALL THINGS...
張貼
