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2014-01-14
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Hong Kong is extremely lucky to have true Ginza style Michelin grade nigiri sushi. While there is 3 Michelin star Shikon, Ginza Iwa is a newcomer to the scene and absolutely does not disappoint.A reservation is pretty much mandatory, as there are a very limited number of seats at the sushi bar, where there are two sushi chefs. The person on the right is a local, and the left side is manned by head chef Daisuke Suzuki who has apprenticed under Iwa-san for at least 8 years.There is no formal dress
Hong Kong is extremely lucky to have true Ginza style Michelin grade nigiri sushi. While there is 3 Michelin star Shikon, Ginza Iwa is a newcomer to the scene and absolutely does not disappoint.A reservation is pretty much mandatory, as there are a very limited number of seats at the sushi bar, where there are two sushi chefs. The person on the right is a local, and the left side is manned by head chef Daisuke Suzuki who has apprenticed under Iwa-san for at least 8 years.
There is no formal dress code for this restaurant, as I came in dressed very casually, and to my left were a family visiting from Canada, who did not take advantage of the fact that they sat in front of the head chef who would be more than willing to chat with you, if you had questions and showed a great interest in the food and where it was sourced.
There are three courses to choose from, and I opted for the most expensive, Omakase HK$3000. This included a series of 8 appetizers as well as sashimi, and eventually ends with a 12 pieces nigiri course, followed by a soup, as well as two slices of delectable Japanese fruit.
To start, Suzuki san presented a large delectable Japanese oyster. I forgot if it was Hokkaido or Hiroshima, but it was very meaty and delicious. Coming from the USA, this was also a real treat, as it tasted nothing like the oysters from California or Pacific NW (the ones with Japanese names but are not Japanese).
Next came two pieces of buri (yellowtail) and kinmedai (alfonsino) sashimi. For some reason these did not taste as great as they should have, and luckily that was just a one time thing. I would eventually have even better tasting kinmedai at Hikari (Causeway Bay) within a week later.
Then came a small portion of shirako (cod milt) with scallions and ponzu. Pretty good quality stuff, but the top was lightly torched/seared. This was not as stellar as the pristine piece I had at Ta-Ke a year ago, where that version was not heated or torched. Perhaps getting good Japanese shirako this time of year is more difficult?
Next were thin ribbon like slices of Japanese aoyagi clam, taken from the body and the ribbon. Far superior to the East Coast USA variety, and was a treat to have this in HK.
Monkfish liver is a signature here, and the texture is unique and different than anything in the USA. I've read that the liver is partially cooked from the steaming process, yet retains a good flavor with the fat and juices, while retaining a great creamy texture. This is done very nicely here.
Next was a solid piece of silver cod, or gindara, nitsuke style (braised/simmered). Really delicious, although I find it odd that something that seems more like an izakaya dish would appear in this progression, although plated and presented in a very kaiseki like manner.
Next up were two pieces of plain grilled anago (shirayaki) and was quite incredible. It is extremely difficult to find half decent anago in the USA (imported ones from Japan are very expensive), so to have it in high quality here is also a real treat. This would then be contrasted with the true Edo style anago towards the end (which was heavenly).
Suzuki-san kicks it up a notch later with kuro-awabi, steamed abalone, a 3 cubed piece sashimi course with the perfect texture and bite. This was one of my favorites.
Then he surprised me with a small portion of kegani (Hokkaido hair crab), pure meat from the legs. Served with a size of "kani su" (crab vinegar) for dipping. Exquisite to say the least. Following this was a portion of a layered cold vegetable mini dish in dashi that helped give a sense of balance to the meal.
Next surprise: aori ika cut into thin noodles, and mixed in with uni. It's hard not to like this and say "cholestrol banzai!!!!".
Suzuki-san (actually Suzuki-chan, he's a very young and energetic chef!) then takes some kohada, thin slivers of Japanese cucumber (kyuri) and puts some vinegared sushi rice on the backside, then folds the fish slices in half so the cucumber and rice are wrapped inside. The pieces are then stacked together and look oblong and triangular, as if to form a partial floral pattern. Delicious and visually impressive at the same time.
At this point, the chef takes a slice of pristine bluefin dorsal meat and proceeds to marinate it in soy sauce. "Shoyu-zuke!" I said, to which the chef nodded and smiled. It meant the nigiri course was coming.
So for the nigiri course:
madai, wild bluefin from Hokkaido (marinated), seared toro, shiro ebi, aji, sayori, akagai, kobashira, uni gohan (rice mixed with uni, with ikura on top), scallop isobemaki (thin piece of grilled scallop in a piece of crispy seaweed), hamaguri (Edo style clam, but with yuzu jucie and yuzu zest instead of sauce), an ethereal fatty smooth piece of anago, toro takuan hosomaki, with two pieces of kanpyo maki and an amazing tamagoyaki that tasted like a flan and a cheesecake.
The meal ended with honeydew from Shizuoka, and cantaloupe from Fukuoka.
Overall a very splendid meal, despite the high cost. Yes, I know it would cost much less eating this in Japan, but I was not planning on flying there. This is also a once in a lifetime experience for me, and hats off to the restaurant and their team for being so accomodating, chef Suzuki for being so gracious as well as engaging and answering all my questions about the food, and the waitstaff doing a good job of checking up on customers but at the same time not being intrusive.
張貼
