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The Huso with no Huso huso
2022-08-28 255 瀏覽
Tatler Asia says, “Led by a team of caviar experts, Huso is serving an indulgent menu …… that offers a more casual approach to this luxury food staple.  There’s plenty of top-quality caviar to be enjoyed …” and “ccompanying the food menu is a carefully curated range of Champagnes ….”  I only saw 2 kinds of caviars and 12 champagnes on the lists. The champagne selection was not extensive but interesting.  The caviar was, however, hardly plenty.  I have no issues about a menu of merely 2 caviars —
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Tatler Asia says, “Led by a team of caviar experts, Huso is serving an indulgent menu …… that offers a more casual approach to this luxury food staple.  There’s plenty of top-quality caviar to be enjoyed …” and “[a]ccompanying the food menu is a carefully curated range of Champagnes ….”  I only saw 2 kinds of caviars and 12 champagnes on the lists. The champagne selection was not extensive but interesting.  The caviar was, however, hardly plenty.  

I have no issues about a menu of merely 2 caviars — Wilton on Jermyn Street, London, serves only two as well, one Oscietra and one Beluga.  If you’d like more choices, a few steps away, at the block next to the Ritz you will find Caviar House & Prunier.   But in due course, Huso should work on to expand the caviar menu if the restaurant boasts this delicacy.  Huso huso is the name of the Beluga sturgeon species in the biological nomenclature.  Beluga is the king of all kings in the caviar world.  Being the namesake of the king, Huso must not disappoint as regards caviar.

We tried their French Caviar from the young Acipenser baerii, which Prunier purveyed. Of course the fish was not wild caught as caviar from wild sturgeons is banned and consuming it deemed unethical.  The Prunier caviar had a nice yet not overwhelming saltiness while subtle enough to have some nutty flavour faintly discerned.  The roes were round and texturally robust.  Great taste to go with some fizz indeed.  
French Caviar by Prunier
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 We did not open a whole bottle of Champagne since time wouldn’t give us time that day.  A glass of so-so Laurent-Perrier NV from an opened bottle left much to be desired.  Should have a longer lunch for a fresh full bottle next time.   
Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée NV
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 The Crackers, no matter how good they were, tasted far too strong to be the ideal ‘vehicles’ to get caviar on.  The traditional blinis would do a better job.  I noted the same crackers were put to serve steak tartare, and they certainly suited this stronger appetiser more.  I appreciated advice from a caviar expert of the reason serving caviar with these crackers.  That’s why the egg flakes that came with the caviar as well became a great accompaniment, elevated from their supporting role.  
Caviar and Crackers (1 star given to the Crackers)
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Egg Yolk and Egg White
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 In the basket could intriguing types of Bread be found — apart from the ordinary bacon roll were the more delightful ones — poppadom (sorry all gone before taking pictures), brioche, and Laugenbrötchen.  This German bread, Laugenbrot, literally means lye bread or is more appetisingly called pretzel roll. The bread has crust resemble pretzel’s but gets a soft crumb like the other bread.   All four types of bread were delicious, but the butter was served slightly too soft to my palate.  
Bread Basket (Laugenbrot | Brioche | Bacon Roll)
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Laugenbrötchen (Lye Bread or Pretzel Rolls)
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 Appetiser — Dior Egg.  Monsieur Dior must have a delicate palate.  The champagne jelly encased egg topped with caviar was finely plated. The taste stood on the thin side but slight fragrance from the fizzy wine complemented the deep saltiness of the caviar.   Champagne jelly matched well with caviar if properly served.  Just that I was not fully convinced of this dish that M. Dior liked, but admitted it was a fine appetiser.  Perhaps I would like to have some lentils substantiate the caviar and jelly like Chef Ducasse does.  
Dior Egg
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 Main Course.  Catch of the Day was Barramundi.  Though far from exceptional, the roasted fish was one sun-shiny, and homey dish.  The tomato sauce and veggie made you feel happily at ease as if you were enjoying a Mediterranean summer day. 
Catch of the Day - Roasted Barramundi
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 Dessert — Soft Serve Ice Cream.  The idea seemed like caviar was used in lieu of sea salt.  This sounded decadent and somewhat gimmicky, and whether this made gastronomical sense remained moot.  Further, no much skill was required to make it.  I myself, however, wouldn’t oppose to this great attempt and enjoyed the caviar-salted ice-cream to its fullest.  The caviar didn’t transcend the ice cream but sufficed to let you gulp it down greedily. The hidden gem lying inside the cone — the champagne jelly —  did give an extra level of hedonic feeling.  At the end of the day, vanity of vanities; all is vanity, and that’s what is all about when indulging yourself in edible black gold.  
Soft Serve Ice Cream (Caviar and Champagne)
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 Conclusion.  Nicely decorated with a light tone, Huso appears a little arty but carries a mesmerising vibe.  It serves above average but not great food. The young waiting staff apparently fall short in experience though the efforts and sincerity of the manager fill the bill.  The caviar and champagne coupled with Mediterranean food should be as much an attractive point as a niche in the competitive F&B market here in Hong Kong, but the restaurant first needs to broaden the menu in this respect in order to strengthen its niche.  After all, Huso without caviar from Huso huso is imperfect.  
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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    用餐日期
    2022-08-13
    用餐途徑
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    人均消費
    $1300 (午餐)
    推介美食
    French Caviar by Prunier
    Bread Basket (Laugenbrot | Brioche | Bacon Roll)
    Laugenbrötchen (Lye Bread or Pretzel Rolls)
    Catch of the Day - Roasted Barramundi
    Soft Serve Ice Cream (Caviar and Champagne)