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2008-10-04
10 瀏覽
Note: Dinner @ Nobilduca, 1st event for me. Thanks to the people at Openrice and Nobilduca who made this happen (And 'Smashing Pumpkins' for the wonderful CONVERSAZIONE throughout) I've been putting off reviewing Nobilduca, as I am at a loss of words, trying to pack everything into a decent-length review. Reading others' now, my doubts flew out the window.Nobilduca is tucked away on one maze's end of an otherwise upscale arcade. With labels of luxury as neighbors, it is no surprised that an esta
Nobilduca is tucked away on one maze's end of an otherwise upscale arcade. With labels of luxury as neighbors, it is no surprised that an establishment with the name NOBILDUCA, derived to mean artistocrats, made its way into this location. The view from the restaurant is great, the decor does not reflect any sign of rustic designs expected of a TRATTORIA, which supposedly serves food in LA FAMIGLIA style on big platters (quite the contrary here...or maybe aristocrats all have appetites of songbirds, even in Italy?!). The linens here are pressed, starched and picket-fence white. The pricing is very ristorante, you can call them serving themselves the humble pie, everything else seems to suggest the contrary. The name aside, service is rather attentive. The staff is right there with the water jug when you need them.
The menu was constructed by the season, which at this time of the year I expected one course with porcini (it's here), and maybe some brown food (it's there). I was also anticipating beet greens or kale in the minestrone too. Allow me to go on by courses:
1. Bresaola's "Caramelle" with mascarpone and fresh herbs served with Red Onion, Rucola, Button Mushroom salad in Lemon oil
Bresaola is filled with a combination of mascarpone and raisins which has been soaked in Grappa. The taste screams ITALIAN (in Capitals) with reminiscence of crispy freshness from the onions and mushrooms. Rocket leaves offer a smoky note while the lemon oil is hardly lemony enough to be called that.
2. Char-grilled Japanese Scallops with Cauliflower Puree.
The manager had it right, as scallops cooked through made rubbery textures. This dish is simple as an image of variations of whiteness. The scallops are pale discs with just a hint of heat and ocean sweetness, mellowed out by a fine puree of Cauliflower, which easily can be disguised as creamed potatoes.
3. Zuppe -- Italian Vegetable Soup with pesto
The anticipated MINESTRONE is a must-have in Italian meals. With 8 countable vegetables in it (Cannellini beans, sweet peas, carrots, onions, cabbage, courgettes, parsley and tomatoes). The soup is slightly thinner than I thought it should be. Traditionally seasonal vegetables will come and go in the soup stock to make a seasonal version of minestrone. In times of Fall, I'm surprised there are still garden peas around while kale/ beet greens were nowhere to be found?! The taste is up to par, it tasted like vegetables at the least, and the pesto is ok.
4. Primi PIatti -- Spaghetti with garlic, Olive oil and Chili Pepper Nobilduca Style
Much like Spaghetti Aglio Olio Peperoncino, the Italian comfort food, the emphasis is on the simplicity of it all. Chef Gary Cheng made no mistake about the simplicity of this dish, and incorporating as much minced garlic in the bitefuls as you can humanly handle with turning your nose away. The garlic is pungent, but the combination generates both raves and nays. The raves go to its simplistic nature, while the nays rose when the garlic seemed to have taken star statuses while the balance of everything else vanished into thin air. (or the smell of garlic).
5. Risotto with porcini and Duck Ragu Sauce
Starting with duck carcasses, a duck broth is made, which turned into a flavorful duck ragu. The use of Porcini and Rosemary is clearly a seasonal decision. I would prefer a stronger taste of Porcini. The duck is no stringy matter and the rice is cooked right to the bite. I like the Risotto, but surely I've had better elsewhere.
6. Smoked Norwegian Salmon with New Potato and Chervil Salad
Surprise of the evening. Instead of the deli-style sliced salmon, the fish is served thick on the fillet, smoked 7 to 8 minutes in an apple-wood-burning oven. The skin is slightly crisp and the smoky taste is ample but not overpowering. The fish has a moist interior, as its soft texture coincides with the crispness of new potato to form an unlikely but fitting dual. The chervil offers a palate-cleansing anise flavor, faintly rinsing our tastebuds before the next bite, and the next... It's a wonderful dish afterall...
7. Baked Australian Lamb Chops with Crust of Herbs Pine nuts and Roasted Garlic.
One juicy lamb Lollipop in each serving. The crust seemed to have moistened when served. Flavorful throughout, especially on the pignoli in the crust that accentuates a tiny bit of gamey taste in the lamb. Garlic cloves are caramelized, as you unpeel each clove, a whiff of sweet onion-like fragrance filled the air. This element offered an extra emphasis on the use of garlic throughout this menu but through a completely different method brings out another form of garlic altogether...Somehow this coincided with the philosophy of Italian cooking -- the use of common ingredients to create a completely different variation of dishes as far as creativity goes.
8. Dolci -- Marinated Banana in Lime, Honey and Sour Cream
Banana Foster, Italian style. The sour cream tasted like lime too, I realized, as it could be concocted with the right proportions of lime juice and cream, much like the Mexican Crema. Juliennes of Lime zest decorated an otherwise simple desserts that can easily be made at home. Banana rounds are sweet and ripe while crumbles of amaretti biscuits offer a crunchy tecture to the dish. the sweetness in honey is not cloying as the tartness in lime cuts through each bite, mellowed eventually by cream. Simple, yet appropriately delicate to end the meal.
Sipping Espresso, I contemplated this review with notes on my hand and conversations with others at the table. Looking at the miniature cup holding a small puddle of coffee topped with crema, I realized the fun throughout the meal, and the joy of spending time enjoying food with folks alike. The idea of the review escaped my mind, as I enjoyed the last sip of coffee and disappeared in a group, into the darkness of night, filled with joy brought to me by more than a meal alone.
張貼
