影片
更多
2010-03-27
903 瀏覽
I had originally planned to visit here during dinner but that spot was pre-reserved for another little known place I knew I had to try, so lunch became a duel between choosing Wynn's 永利軒 and 京花軒. 永利軒 actually won 1st round and received the consensual knod because I knew one needs to try 京花軒 at night to realise its full potential, plus 永利軒 is dirt cheap for a Michelin Star lunch but as usual was fully booked until 3pm. Anyway here we arrived as our 3rd but not necessarily least preferred cho
This approach doesn't automatically make their offerings diluted in terms of taste or authenticity, although there's ample evidence from certain HK touristy restaurants or Mxxxx offerings that could put the final nail in the coffin right now which supports that argument, but it'll be irresponsible to throw on a blanket statement over everything then write it off just because it 'sounds' fusionised - afterall, we all grew up on them. In fact if you think from another angle, it could well mean that the Kitchen here has been exposed to more cuisines than other chefs and therefore potential possess the additional knowhow required to refine their signature dishes. The proof in the pudding? 譚家菜, is known as the most highly regarded 官府菜 in Beijing circles. The Golden Flower Chef Team is well trained in both and more cuisines properly, and this really showed in the cooking...
************************
TEAS
福建省武夷山-烏龍: No Beijing cuisine is complete without serving the best teas available. A type of Oolong of 3 types of flowers were first given, with an additional emptied tall cup for your 'aromatic' enjoyment.
福建省-黃金桂: Another Fujian province 清茶. Got better after 3-4 cups of brewing.
FOOD
門釘鮮蝦肉餅:
唔錯, 單調但有水準. 4/5
韮菜盒子:
不同潮州式, 比較扁平, 但仍入口鬆化, 韮菜餡竟也可以做得很幽雅. 4.5/5
北方水餃:
好味到嚇親我. 第一淡試了一小口時, 本以為會平平無奇, 但半秒未過已知自己assume 錯了.. 此時才想起, 水餃本來不就是普通不過的食品嗎? 你還想將它變成曉飛嗎? 飛, 就真的是給它做到了. 它皮是薄薄地煙齦的, 但裡面啲菜肉餡是輕輕的拾到好處在自然地漂浮竹著, 還像小龍包一樣勁有湯汁. 全部嘢比例剛剛好. 也是那句, 這種輕巧 sophisticated 的味道同手功, 大部份香港或乜嘢國籍人也好, 是未別會認同它是好的. 但食過而又喜歡 '夜上海' 的人, 或不會總覺得不夠粗獷北方味道就是港化了的 (它不是, 但實有人會話係!), 應該也會很喜歡這種平淡得嚟有 sophistication & aftertaste 的出品. 題外話: 我覺得阿鴻小食或鼎泰豐不是樣樣嘢做到這 IMAX-3D 效果! 5/5
京城炸醬撈麵:
這味由五種菜/Pickle 同肉醬自由撈埋的手掣拉麵 (too many photos to fit in here!)) , 也是走向淡味蕾路綫的. 同在北京食到的黑黑甜甜醬油赤醬'麵豉'版比, 不是即食即會 whack you on the palate upfront like a cheap un-aged wine or fresh coffee bean, 但你要慢慢自己找尋時, 你想信它它就總會有日來臨的. 就是 tune 得這麼完美. 佩服. 可惜的是, 麵有味但實在很快從 residual heat cooking 變淋了些許, 因無過冷河, 4.5/5
菜曲帶子餃:
Signature Dim Sim. 這有少許廣東嘅靈魂在內, 但加上了京菜的演變. Topped with a sliver of mango to balance it all. The dumpling skin and ingredients were all perfect, from quality and combination of ingredients to execution and also flavouring. Hard to find this quality in Hong Kong for some reason, glad to I wasn't blank complaining before for something which does not exist - because it does. 5/5
家常豬肉餅:
做到全無油效果已難, 仲要又有餅香又有鬆鬆的豬肉同肉味. 4.8/5
春餅素合菜:
其實本是很大碟, 再分成了有大慨八大片的, 全由侍候人在客人面前即瑒包. 餡包括有煎蛋, 菇裡, 菜, 粉絲同醬汁, 給包入煙齦的薄餅. 聽落唔特別仲好似和尚帶帽, 但食落就不可說笑. 調味真係很有層次感, 不怕老是像很多地方有味精損壞了. 5/5
**********************
其實食完這餐有點口渴的, 但請不要每次食完飯口渴就話人家是 MSG 所致. 很多時見到啲標榜話明無用味精的食府也給人話食完後很渴就等於加了味精, 其實很多食品也有 Umami 的. MSG's dehydrating effect 會膈很久很久才散. 這裡? 就只不過是完來, 有幾樣餸落了些許在食緊時也輕微到不太察覺得到的很微的蒜茸. 高手 - 就是這麼輕手地調味的, 要食完晒所有嘢加埋加埋, 才感覺到它的效果了! 飲多杯可樂很快就無事了.
這裡老實講幾貴的, 但很值得. (在香港也不覺有這水準的京菜館? )
同是高級京菜, 萬料不及的是, 比起我以前食過的 '厲家菜': 那 '宮廷菜' 的表現, 竟給這低一斑的 ’官府菜' 給徹底地敗下去了...
張貼
