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2024-11-27
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This contemporary French restaurant is located on the rooftop of The Peninsula Hong Kong, commanding a grandeur view of the Kowloon skylines and Victoria Harbour on the two sides of the full-length windows. My second visit, but this time it is the special Bruno Rocca wine dinner, with the menu curated by Aurelie Altemaire.I was very surprised when the staff at the entrance is able to call out my name. Apparently, they have done some check with the clients on the night beforehand. Seated on the w
This contemporary French restaurant is located on the rooftop of The Peninsula Hong Kong, commanding a grandeur view of the Kowloon skylines and Victoria Harbour on the two sides of the full-length windows. My second visit, but this time it is the special Bruno Rocca wine dinner, with the menu curated by Aurelie Altemaire.
I was very surprised when the staff at the entrance is able to call out my name. Apparently, they have done some check with the clients on the night beforehand. Seated on the window side, the décor has the familiar sleek, modern chic vibe, with high ceiling, dim lighting, and the large bar at the back drawing the visitors into a surreal setting.
Starting with the aperitif, it is the sparkling Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Giustino B. Extra Dry 2022 from Ruggeri. The wine is straw yellow in colour, with a persistent mousse and good complexity in aromas, having hints of apple, peach, yellow flowers, and grapefruit. This wine is perfect for starters, and get ourselves ready and anticipating for the food to come.
The first course ‘To Start…’ features some Italian Gambero Rosse, with the red prawn paired with some Smoked Mozzarella cheese foam, seasoned with a bit of paprika to give a hint of mild spiciness, with some caviar on top, not only to provide additional savoury taste to the dish but increase the premium. A very good starter.
A Fougasse is served as well, which is a type of bread from Provence, made to an interesting wheat head shape. To go with the bread the chef has prepared a Muhammara, a spicy dip made from walnut, red bell peppers, pomegranate molasses and breadcrumbs, garnished with some parsley. The bread is very good and we have finished it before the second course is served.
The second wine paired is Bruno Rocco Barbera d’Alba 2021. The wine has ripe cherries as well as plenty of black fruit including plum and blackberry, with also toasted almond and some spicy notes of black pepper. The rounded palate and integrated tannin make it an easy-drinking wine that can be enjoyed at relatively young age.
The second course is French Foie Gras & Duck. Presented in a neat way, the Marble Terrine is sandwiched with a layer of Mulled Wine Jelly, with Red Berries Chutney on the side. The rich and creamy foie gras has duck meat added to form a good mix of texture, seasoned perfectly. The mulled wine jelly helps to freshen the palate, while the chutney provides the necessary acidity to balance. A great dish on its own and goes well with the wine too.
The third wine paired is Bruno Rocco Barbaresco 2020. Apart from the familiar cherries and black fruit, this wine has a more floral note of violet compared with the earlier Barbera d’Alba, with a more complex palate, less green peppercorn than the last one but showing more kernel characters of cocoa. More polished and all-rounded.
The third course is Spanish Meagre. The fish is grilled on the hot, round metal plate, skillfully done with a crisp skin while the flesh remains moist and tender. On the side is Piperade, a stew of peppers, onions, and tomatoes. Finishing with a Sobrassada Sauce, which is made from a type of Spanish sausage, with a rich paprika taste. The slight smoky and spiciness adds an extra dimension of flavours to the fish. Very good.
The fourth wine paired is Bruno Rocco Barbaresco Riserva Curra 2013. Very limited with only 3980 bottles produced, it has the same floral notes, but this one has a more subtle aroma, reminiscent more to the dried flowers, the wine has good plum and raspberry notes, with also some mushroom and tobacco characters which goes well with the white truffle in the next course.
The fourth course features Italian White Truffle, with Chef Altemaire coming to our table to shave the prized seasonal delicacy onto the Celery Root and Artichoke Ragout. The white truffle has just flown in from Alba on the morning, highly fragrant. On the bottom is a puree of black truffle, which enhances the already rich truffle flavours, finishing with some Aged Parmesan infusion and Smoked Pancetta. Simple but able to highlight the ingredients to the full extent. Very good.
Next comes the fifth and sixth wine paired, Bruno Rocco Barbaresco Rabaja 2020 as well as Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Maria Adelaide 2019. The former has more spicy characters, exhibiting a wide range of sweet spices plus liquorice, together with some oaky notes on top of ripe cherry. The latter is denser, more powerful but still well-balanced, showing a bit of minty notes in addition to the cherry and plum. Both delicious Barbaresco.
The fifth course is Rhug Estate Venison Saddle. The beautiful venison fillet comes from Wales and is Grilled in Mild Spices to a perfect medium rare, very tender and juicy, superbly tasty without any gamey or weird flavours. The meat is in wonderful harmony with the Black Currant Gravy which gives a bit of sweetness to increase the complexity. On the side is Confit Cabbage. While it might look like a simple dish, it is so delicious and definitely my favourite in the evening.
For the sixth and last course, it is Espelette Pepper & Aragani Chocolate. The dark chocolate cake is made from Venezuela cocoa, with rich flavours and some interestingly sweet spice notes, matching well with the sauce which has added with the famous French chilies. There is also a Vanilla Ice Cream on top to give the sweetness to balance with the chocolate, with a chocolate crisp offering a difference in texture. A rewarding finale of the menu.
The Petits Fours include Steamed Meringue with Yuzu Custard and Homemade Chocolate. I like the meringue as it is not too sweet. A good complement to go with the coffee to finish the whole meal.
Overall, the food quality is very good, executed well by well-trained and enthusiastic staff, delivering impeccable service, with the staff also demonstrating great in-depth knowledge on the wines. The bill on the night is $5,694 which is very reasonable considering the wines served. A happy, satisfying, and enjoyable evening which prompts us to plan to return again soon. A good spot for a nice dinner with someone important.
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