31
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2012-06-17 29 views
一直以爲香港沒有一所洋食屋,直至近日才知道有一家隱藏於這個混凝土森林,終於一嘗正宗奄列飯。推開大門,一朕香濃的煎蛋味直撲鼻子,叫我們不得不立刻乖乖坐下準備用餐。店内雖然沒有塌塌米,但無論酒吧區,用膳區,抑或是露台區,都仍然滲透著古色古香的氣色。 聽説這是新開的洋食店,但我們在門口旁發現"member only"的字樣,而且傢私有點損壞痕跡,所以我們相信這店是剛開放給所有公衆用餐,而不是新開的。可能就是因爲之前只供會員用膳,是日店内的客人差不多全都是日本食客。是日有lunch set提供,包括餐湯,沙拉,主菜和餐後飲品。選擇大概是兩款奄列飯定食(Tomato sauce / Demiglace sauce),兩款housemade漢堡扒定食(Original / molten cheese),兩款燒肉扒定食和30小時燉牛肉定食。我當然選擇了香滑奄列飯定食(Demiglace sauce)(HK$98),而同伴則選了生薑汁燒豬扒定食(HK$128)。先來餐湯,是日是南瓜湯。這裡的南瓜湯比平常喝的色澤較黃,味道頗甜,南瓜味不濃,反而是忌廉味較爲突出,而且好像有點粟米味。由於甜度較高的關係,感
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一直以爲香港沒有一所洋食屋,直至近日才知道有一家隱藏於這個混凝土森林,終於一嘗正宗奄列飯。

推開大門,一朕香濃的煎蛋味直撲鼻子,叫我們不得不立刻乖乖坐下準備用餐。店内雖然沒有塌塌米,但無論酒吧區,用膳區,抑或是露台區,都仍然滲透著古色古香的氣色。

聽説這是新開的洋食店,但我們在門口旁發現"member only"的字樣,而且傢私有點損壞痕跡,所以我們相信這店是剛開放給所有公衆用餐,而不是新開的。可能就是因爲之前只供會員用膳,是日店内的客人差不多全都是日本食客。
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是日有lunch set提供,包括餐湯,沙拉,主菜和餐後飲品。選擇大概是兩款奄列飯定食(Tomato sauce / Demiglace sauce),兩款housemade漢堡扒定食(Original / molten cheese),兩款燒肉扒定食和30小時燉牛肉定食。

我當然選擇了香滑奄列飯定食(Demiglace sauce)(HK$98),而同伴則選了生薑汁燒豬扒定食(HK$128)。

先來餐湯,是日是南瓜湯。這裡的南瓜湯比平常喝的色澤較黃,味道頗甜,南瓜味不濃,反而是忌廉味較爲突出,而且好像有點粟米味。由於甜度較高的關係,感覺挺膩口,幸好分量不多。
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很快,日籍男店員帶著微笑,送上同伴的生薑汁燒豬扒定食

薯仔沙拉:薯茸幼滑,但不會因忌廉的效果而失去原味。薯茸内還夾雜了火腿條和青瓜條,增加口感之餘,亦減少膩感,而且鹹度適中。
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生薑汁燒豬扒:坦白說,光看賣相,滿嚇人,不過比一些初級廣東廚師弄的“杰塌塌”的所謂芡汁好很多。話雖如此,内在美還是最重要。

我撥開醬汁,先試豬扒的原味。豬扒不韌,鬆化無比,沒有“根”,只是用鐵匙羹,大力一點,便可切開。(我們偷懶,爲了方便吃飯,沒有用叉。^^")肉味還好,但醬汁好像沒有滲入肉裏。之後,再來一個沾上醬的版本。當我正準備吃第二口,忽然同伴忍不住說,“哇,好鹹。”我半信半疑地看著那塊豬扒,把它放進口中。我撲一聲笑了。它真的很鹹,甚至太鹹,導致有點苦,不過當中的薑味溫和,不會嗆口,如果鹹度降低一些,風味會更佳。

白飯飯粒分明,很香,質感如一眾日本米,依舊軟糯。剛才的豬扒醬汁太濃味,用來送飯便最好不過。(完全是廣東人的習慣)
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"嘟嘟嘟,嘟嘟嘟..." 廚房裏的Timer響了,沒多久,我的 香滑奄列飯定食(Demiglace sauce) 也來了。以一秒鐘拍完照後,立刻拿起刀,輕輕地切開蛋皮...
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那是多麽誘人的流心!蛋汁緩緩地流出,很是澎湃的畫面。不用靠近碟子,也嗅到很濃郁的蛋香味。奄列十分滑溜,遠超Niji Bistro的水準。蛋皮下是番茄肉粒炒飯,番茄味道濃烈,味道甜甜酸酸。不過飯粒的黏度很高,有點糊狀,可能用的不是冷飯吧。Demiglace sauce也不錯,感覺很沙,店家應該很用心的將牛筋, 牛小腿肉, 以及小牛骨燉了很長時間,但鹹度可以降低一點。滑溜的蛋,醒胃的飯,配上牛肉精華,實在難以筆墨形容。我不忍心看著蛋汁慢慢地被熱力凝固,所以它成爲了我出生以來最快吃光的一碟飯。
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至於餐後飲品,本來想叫凍咖啡(聽説冰是咖啡結成的),但最後還是叫杯熱的。另外加多杯熱檸水。

熱檸水:杯内只得一小片檸檬。還以爲是清淡如白開水,誰料味道十分酸,原來店家事先已在内搾了檸檬汁,很貼心的服務。
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熱咖啡:很強碳燒味,微酸,不苦。加了牛奶(室溫)之後,碳燒咖啡味完全被淹沒,取而代之是很濃的奶香(應該是日本牛奶吧),真不知是好,還是壞。
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店員無數次的Thankyou,臨走時店主帶點日本音的“多謝,再見!”,當然還有那個讓人“心都融化”的奄列飯,很是感動,叫我不得不回這所優秀殿堂。
女廚師
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(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$120 (Lunch)
Recommended Dishes
女廚師
  • 香滑奄列飯定食(Demiglace sauce)
Level4
I love eggs and everything with egg, and I have yet to find someone who does not like オムライス (omuraisu or omelette rice) in Japan. I always have to have omuraisu at least once whenever I go to Japan. In Hong Kong, there are only a handful of places that over Japanese style omelette rice, let alone GOOD ones. When I saw Hidden Kitchen秀殿 being featured in Eat and Travel Weekly (飲食男女) last week, their omuraisu immediately caught my attention. Then all of a sudden we decided to go there impromptu
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I love eggs and everything with egg, and I have yet to find someone who does not like オムライス (omuraisu or omelette rice) in Japan. I always have to have omuraisu at least once whenever I go to Japan.

In Hong Kong, there are only a handful of places that over Japanese style omelette rice, let alone GOOD ones. When I saw Hidden Kitchen秀殿 being featured in Eat and Travel Weekly (飲食男女) last week, their omuraisu immediately caught my attention. Then all of a sudden we decided to go there impromptu as I could no longer behold the temptation of having a good omuraisu in Hong Kong. In fact I went there twice within 24 hours, first for dinner and second for lunch.

With only 4 small tables and some bar seats, the whole décor and look and feel of Hidden Kitchen closely resemble the small yōshokuya (洋食屋) in Japan. The female chef and the staff (only 2) are all Japanese, and a sneak peek at the tiny kitchen reveald that there is actually just one stove and a very small oven at the counter.
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At dinner time there are a range of appetizers, a small selection of mains and only 2 desserts. I ordered a Shirley Temple but it was way too sweet.
Shirley Temple - too sweet...
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The omuraisu at Hidden Kitchen is とろふわオムライス (toro fuwa omuraisu) or タンポポ (tampopo)-style. So the finished omelette is placed on top of the fried rice instead of already wrapping around it. Then you cut a slit on the top of the omelette and spread open the egg, exposing the runny inside of the omelette and letting it wrapping around the top of the rice.
とろふわオムライス (トマトソース) Omuraisu (Tomato Sauce)
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とろふわオムライス (トマトソース) Omuraisu (Tomato Sauce)
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とろふわオムライス (トマトソース) Omuraisu (Tomato Sauce)
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There are two kinds of omuraisu available at Hidden Kitchen – one with トマトソース (tomato sauce) and one with デミグラスソース (demi glace sauce). They were both well-executed, with the inside of the omelette runny and juicy, not a bit overcooked. However, the omelette with tomato sauce was clearly not perfect in shape when it arrived, with a little of the bottom “skin” extended out. A lot of omuraisu in Japan are served with ketchup, but this tomato sauce was cooked with herb. I don't mind either way and this was quite delicious.

The omuraisu with demi glace sauce was done perfectly with the classic oval appearance. The sauce was thick, flavorful, and very close to what I had in Japan. Personally I preferred this one to the one with tomato sauce, but it is just personal preference.
とろふわオムライス (デミグラスソース) Omuraisu (Demiglace Sauce)
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とろふわオムライス (デミグラスソース) Omuraisu (Demiglace Sauce)
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I did feel that both omelette didn’t have as much “egg” flavor as those in Japan. Perhaps it’s the type of eggs that they use? Not all omelette came out in perfect shape as they did in Japan either.

As for the fried rice, it was a little lacking in flavor and texture than the ones I had in Japan. These 3 factors: consistent shape of omelette, egg flavor, and rice flavor and texture, that made the omuraisu here not as memorable as the top-notch omuraisu in Japan. That said, it seems that it is as good as it gets in Hong Kong, and I will still be happy to order the omuraisu here again.

30時間煮込んだ ほほ肉ビーフシチュー (30-Hour Beef Cheek Stew)
30時間煮込んだ ほほ肉のビーフシチュー Beef Cheek Stew
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Whether it was stewed for 30 hours was not known, but the beef cheek meat was soft and tender without totally losing the chew. The collagen parts with the gelatinous texture were the best bits! The stew sauce was rich like gravy and full of beefy flavor and the sweetness of the vegetables.

My dinner visit: two omuraisu + Beef Cheek Stew
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This sauce was great with the bread being served together, and I am sure it will go well with rice! A very enjoyable dish!

I went there for lunch the next day with another friend. There were 7 lunch sets available, and all the lunch sets came with soup, salad, and drinks. I ordered the omuraisu with tomato sauce again. The texture and flavor of the omelette were quite consistent, and this time the omelette shape was better than dinner
Lunch set: とろふわオムライス (トマトソース)
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とろとろチーズハンバーグ Original Cheese Hamburg Set (limited)
とろとろチーズハンバーグ Original Cheese Hamburg Set (limited)
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The cheese burger to me was not as impressive as all the other dishes I have tried. There were a lot of onions in the patty which appeared to be a mixture of beef and pork - a very typical Japanese style burger patty which I like if it is done right. However, while the burger patty here was soft without being dense or dry, there was not much meat flavor at all. The cheese was also not the suggested とろとろチーズ (toro toro cheese) which meant gooey melting cheese. In fact it had very little cheese inside. It was really the delectable brown meat sauce again that saved the whole dish.

The pumpkin soup served that day was lukewarm, and the potato salad was chunky and lacking seasoning and mayo. They were both just average. Iced tea and coffee were classic Japanese style and tasted quite nice.
Pumpkin soup and potato salad with the lunch set
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Overall, I am very satisfied with my 2 visits. Although the food, especially the omuraisu, couldn’t quite compare to the best omuraisu shops in Japan, I think the ones served here are probably the most authentic and delicious in Hong Kong for now. With a cozy environment and nice service, I will for sure go back for the omuraisu and the beef cheek stew again.
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Date of Visit
2012-06-12
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$200 (Dinner)
Recommended Dishes
とろふわオムライス (トマトソース) Omuraisu (Tomato Sauce)
とろふわオムライス (デミグラスソース) Omuraisu (Demiglace Sauce)
My dinner visit: two omuraisu + Beef Cheek Stew
30時間煮込んだ ほほ肉のビーフシチュー Beef Cheek Stew
とろふわオムライス (デミグラスソース) Omuraisu (Demiglace Sauce)
Lunch set: とろふわオムライス (トマトソース)
とろふわオムライス (トマトソース) Omuraisu (Tomato Sauce)
とろふわオムライス (トマトソース) Omuraisu (Tomato Sauce)
  • omuraisu withe demi glace sauce
  • beef cheek stew
Level4
2012-06-16 9 views
星期五的晚上, 工作暫時完結, 是跟朋友相聚的最好時間. 是晚吃完一輪甜品, 還是要吃正餐的, 選擇就是近日有不少朋友推介的秀殿. 地點位處商業大廈中, 加上大廈已落半閘, 真難想像到內裡是另有天地. 這裡地方不太大, 雖然來的時候已經是晚上九時, 還是有不少客人, 幸好我們已經一早訂座了, 見之後再有客人來到, 也因為滿座而無法進內一試.幾名店員也是日藉人士, 加上這裡簡潔的裝修, 是典型日式小店的格局. 店子還有戶外的位置, 在鬧市中的空中花園進食也是個好主意, 當然, 天氣那麼熱, 在總管一聲令下, 還是乖乖的留在室內吧. 看看餐牌, 只有11款前菜, 6款主食, 再加上2款甜品, 實是相當簡單, 但這也能夠讓小店集中火力去做好招牌的菜色. 最後, 我們選了3款前菜, 3款主食, 再加一客雪糕, 相當豐富了.Potato with Anchovy Mayonnaise $45: 8分, 來到日菜小店, 總會有薯仔沙律的選擇, 實是相當家常的前菜. 這裡的薯仔大大粒, 感覺上幾粗糙, 薯仔香幾突出, 配上蛋黃醬, 帶點點鯷魚香, 是簡單而美味的. Pork Meat Paste w
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星期五的晚上, 工作暫時完結, 是跟朋友相聚的最好時間. 是晚吃完一輪甜品, 還是要吃正餐的, 選擇就是近日有不少朋友推介的秀殿. 地點位處商業大廈中, 加上大廈已落半閘, 真難想像到內裡是另有天地. 這裡地方不太大, 雖然來的時候已經是晚上九時, 還是有不少客人, 幸好我們已經一早訂座了, 見之後再有客人來到, 也因為滿座而無法進內一試.

幾名店員也是日藉人士, 加上這裡簡潔的裝修, 是典型日式小店的格局. 店子還有戶外的位置, 在鬧市中的空中花園進食也是個好主意, 當然, 天氣那麼熱, 在總管一聲令下, 還是乖乖的留在室內吧. 看看餐牌, 只有11款前菜, 6款主食, 再加上2款甜品, 實是相當簡單, 但這也能夠讓小店集中火力去做好招牌的菜色. 最後, 我們選了3款前菜, 3款主食, 再加一客雪糕, 相當豐富了.

Potato with Anchovy Mayonnaise $45: 8分, 來到日菜小店, 總會有薯仔沙律的選擇, 實是相當家常的前菜. 這裡的薯仔大大粒, 感覺上幾粗糙, 薯仔香幾突出, 配上蛋黃醬, 帶點點鯷魚香, 是簡單而美味的.
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Pork Meat Paste with Bread $45: 7分, 另一客前菜就是肉醬配上麵包, 肉香十足, 麵包就是相當香脆的, 就這樣把肉醬塗上麵包上吃, 當然是匹配的組合. 最後還剩下不少肉醬, Min姐索性就這樣剩吃, 勁.
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Shrimp with Garlic $58: 8分, 另外要了客寫在黑版上的是日精選, 就是蒜蓉大蝦配上麵包. 未上檯之前已經聞到那撲鼻的蒜蓉香, 味道相當濃烈, 受不了蒜蓉味道的朋友要留意了. 蝦是熱力十足, 肉質夠爽口, 加上濃濃的蒜香, 用來下酒實是一流. 至於麵包用來點蒜油吃, 也是相當惹味, 見Min姐雖然口口聲聲說好油, 最後還是跟大家一同清掉.
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Omlet Rice (Tomato sauce) $98: 8分, 來到主食的時候, 先來的就是香滑奄列飯, 第一客是配上番茄汁的. 或者先講講歷史, 起初的蛋包飯是先把蛋煎成半熟, 再將飯倒入蛋中並包起來, 是真的用蛋包著飯. 不過, 近年也有個做法叫作蒲公英蛋包飯, 就是在飯上加上煎蛋. 當然, 這做法蛋是不能包著飯, 是否還應該叫作蛋包飯就真的見仁見智. 在香港, 不少店子也有做蛋包飯, 但其實做出來的都是蒲公英蛋包飯, 而這裡做的也是這個款式, 不過店子倒老實, 就乾脆把菜色定名為香滑奄列飯. (當然, Omlet是串錯字還是店方有特別意思就不知道了!)
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當然要用刀切開奄列, 蛋汁相當豐溢, 蛋香也算幾突出, 吃落口更是相當滑溜, 配上酸酸甜甜的番茄汁同吃, 是很開胃適組合.. 不過嫌飯粒實在偏濕, 不夠咬口, 當然, 單計蛋已經令人相當滿足.
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Omlet Rice (Demiglace sauce) $98: 8分, 另一款香滑奄列飯就是加入了牛肉燴汁. 先切開奄列, 這下不得了, 蛋汁簡直是去到澎湃的程度, 而蛋也是相當香滑, 是比番茄汁那客奄列煎得更出色. 至於牛肉燴汁是幾濃郁的, 肉味突出, 配上蛋吃也是相當匹配, 跟番茄汁比是兩種不同的感受, 最佳辦法還是兩款都試勻.
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Beef Cheek Stew $148: 9分, 最後來的是30小時燉牛肉, 是製作相當認真的一道主菜, 份量不算太大, 一客只有六件牛肉, 但每一件牛肉都是精華所在, 燉足30小時之後, 肉質是相當之鬆化, 肉味更是超濃郁, 見總管是不客氣的連吃兩件, 就知道這牛肉的水準是如何了. 除了牛肉, 也可吃一口蘿蔔, 吸收了個醬汁的精華, 一樣的相當入味. 另外還配上麵包, 對, 又是麵包, 本來已經相當之飽, 但用麵包點上個醬汁來吃, 實是相當惹味, 怎也要清掉呢. 如果你喜歡吃牛, 這會是你來這裡必吃的一個項目. 相當出色.
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Today’s Icecream $30: 8分, 最後也來客是日雪糕, 總管不喜吃薑味雪糕, 就要了客烘茶雪糕, 質感煙韌, 茶味相當清新, 吃著雪糕的時候, 就像在喝口茶一樣. 吃完濃味的主菜, 吃吃這杯雪糕, 也起了很好的中和作用.
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整體食物是幾高水準, 特別推介的是30小時燉牛肉, 當然, 奄列飯也是不能錯過的. 店員態度親切, 讓客人感受到小店的溫暖. 價位方面, 每人$144, 吃到如此水準的食物, 是相當合理的價位.
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或許店子的水準還不能夠跟日本當地的去比較, 但這裡在各方面的表現其實已算相當不錯. 是值得推介的日式小店.
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$144 (Dinner)
Recommended Dishes
  • 30小時燉牛肉
  • 香滑奄列飯
  • 蒜蓉大蝦配麵包
  • 烘茶雪糕
Level4
2012-06-14 12 views
洋食在日本非常普遍,西式食品加入了當地人口味的元素後漸漸成為了另一種模仿不來的特別風格.不是出自日本人手的話是做不出那種風味.香港吃到的多是集團式經營是只有其形而沒有其味的所謂"日本洋食"要吃正宗的還看這家樓上店二位侍應在招呼客人,女廚師來回的穿梭水吧與廚房.不用開口看樣子已知店內員工全是日本人.看椅子的新舊程度餐廳應是沿用了上一手酒吧的大部份裝修.這一剎的感覺如置身在東京品川的小店沒兩樣!南瓜忌廉湯----極重奶味而帶甜的一個湯!吃慣港式西餐的人可能會難以接受.香滑奄列飯定食----這個不是蛋包飯而是奄列煎好了放在已用茄汁炒過的飯上面的奄列.飯用刀在奄列上輕輕劃過表面蛋汁已澎湃地一湧而出!看此份量應至少用了四隻以上雞蛋來做,入口滑溜重蛋香.用茄汁炒過的珍珠米咽韌有咬口配上這略帶甜味的鮮茄汁及羅勒葉調味與在當地吃到的味道無異!流心芝士漢堡扒定食----自家製的手打漢堡扒非常鬆軟,肉味濃內裡肉汁豐富.芝士份量不多不太流心,但這個淋在碟上的肉汁是絕對地道!在香港還是頭一次吃到.漢堡扒比飯的份量還要大男仕怕不夠飽?不用擔心,配上薯仔沙律是一定夠飽肚的.凍咖啡----雖然只是一杯餐飲,但杯內的
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洋食在日本非常普遍,西式食品加入了當地人口味的元素後漸漸成為了另一種模仿不來的特別風格.不是出自日本人手的話是做不出那種風味.
香港吃到的多是集團式經營是只有其形而沒有其味的所謂"日本洋食"
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要吃正宗的還看這家樓上店
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二位侍應在招呼客人,女廚師來回的穿梭水吧與廚房.不用開口看樣子已知店內員工全是日本人.看椅子的新舊程度餐廳應是沿用了上一手酒吧的大部份裝修.這一剎的感覺如置身在東京品川的小店沒兩樣!
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南瓜忌廉湯----極重奶味而帶甜的一個湯!吃慣港式西餐的人可能會難以接受.
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香滑奄列飯定食----這個不是蛋包飯而是奄列煎好了放在已用茄汁炒過的飯上面的奄列.飯
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用刀在奄列上輕輕劃過表面蛋汁已澎湃地一湧而出!看此份量應至少用了四隻以上雞蛋來做,入口滑溜重蛋香.用茄汁炒過的珍珠米咽韌有咬口配上這略帶甜味的鮮茄汁及羅勒葉調味與在當地吃到的味道無異!
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流心芝士漢堡扒定食----自家製的手打漢堡扒非常鬆軟,肉味濃內裡肉汁豐富.芝士份量不多不太流心,但這個淋在碟上的肉汁是絕對地道!在香港還是頭一次吃到.漢堡扒比飯的份量還要大男仕怕不夠飽?不用擔心,配上薯仔沙律是一定夠飽肚的.
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凍咖啡----雖然只是一杯餐飲,但杯內的冰塊也是用上咖啡來做,這就是日本人細心及注重細節的表現.

午飯時剛好碰上一行十多人的日本太太團到來,氣氛隨即也熱鬧起來!這裡的環境這感覺和在東京的小餐館全沒有兩樣.
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(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$120 (Lunch)
Level4
2012-06-12 11 views
發覺自己對逝去的,過去的,特別喜歡:新派的,潮流的,都不及懷舊的,昨日的,對我胃口,那怕我並不曾屬於那年代.但不是過去值得令人懷念,又怎會有這麼多人,像我般逆流而上,希望尋回曾經的時地人?至少,我在銅鑼灣一隅,呼吸到昨日的空氣.上世紀的昭和年代,日本經歷高速發展,從外地傳入的吃西餐文化變成了潮流.但為固有文化而自豪的大和民族,又怎會樣洋食就這樣影響自身的飲食文化?加上日本不慣吃太多肉的西餐,於是揉合和洋文化的日式洋食就在此時誕生.其中的代表菜式包括:蛋包飯,漢堡扒,意粉,炸薯餅,炸豬扒.在東京歷史較長的地區如銀座和橫濱,還有不少傳統洋食店.上年紀的侍應穿著筆挺西裝,奉上賣相精緻的洋食,一切都像昔日.想不到,在銅鑼灣鬧市的樓上,也能尋到屬於異國的昨天. 不諱言,我也是看雜誌才得知有這地方.從繁囂的銅鑼灣鬧市步進所在的商業大廈,找到所屬的樓層,迎面的是懷舊的大木門.推開,感覺像是進入另一個空間:老舊的搞盤電話和煙盒藏在雕花後迎接著我們;牆上掛滿舊式女郎飲品廣告;耳邊傳來悠揚的英文老歌;酒吧的高椅貫徹懷舊氣氛,都是厚重的綠皮楬木重椅,下面還有網子供擺放雜物.處處洋溢著昔日的歐日情懷.響亮的一
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發覺自己對逝去的,過去的,特別喜歡:新派的,潮流的,都不及懷舊的,昨日的,對我胃口,那怕我並不曾屬於那年代.

但不是過去值得令人懷念,又怎會有這麼多人,像我般逆流而上,希望尋回曾經的時地人?至少,我在銅鑼灣一隅,呼吸到昨日的空氣.

上世紀的昭和年代,日本經歷高速發展,從外地傳入的吃西餐文化變成了潮流.但為固有文化而自豪的大和民族,又怎會樣洋食就這樣影響自身的飲食文化?加上日本不慣吃太多肉的西餐,於是揉合和洋文化的日式洋食就在此時誕生.其中的代表菜式包括:蛋包飯,漢堡扒,意粉,炸薯餅,炸豬扒.在東京歷史較長的地區如銀座和橫濱,還有不少傳統洋食店.上年紀的侍應穿著筆挺西裝,奉上賣相精緻的洋食,一切都像昔日.

想不到,在銅鑼灣鬧市的樓上,也能尋到屬於異國的昨天.
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不諱言,我也是看雜誌才得知有這地方.從繁囂的銅鑼灣鬧市步進所在的商業大廈,找到所屬的樓層,迎面的是懷舊的大木門.
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推開,感覺像是進入另一個空間:老舊的搞盤電話和煙盒藏在雕花後迎接著我們;牆上掛滿舊式女郎飲品廣告;耳邊傳來悠揚的英文老歌;酒吧的高椅貫徹懷舊氣氛,都是厚重的綠皮楬木重椅,下面還有網子供擺放雜物.處處洋溢著昔日的歐日情懷.

響亮的一聲いらっしゃいました,和迎來打招呼的日籍侍應,確認了這片空氣並不屬於歐洲,而是數千里外的日本.店子小小,只有日籍員工三名,枱子四張.酒吧坐著兩名把酒談心的日本人.雖然身在香港,但來到這充滿日本氣氛的小室,我忽然有從主變客的感覺,像是闖進了一個我不屬於的空間.
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幸好,餐牌是日英對照,彬彬有禮的侍應也懂流利英語.和日本不少餐廳一樣,這裡並不主動遞上水,客人is expected to點飲品.飲品牌上的飲品名稱和成分,都滲入日本元素:黑醋,燒酒,是常見的材料.
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最終我們點了Moscow MuleCassis Grapefruit,插著星星冰棍的賣相是同樣的懷舊.呷一口,翳熱盡消,味道更和在日本喝過的一模一樣.價錢並不便宜,但也許這份家鄉味道,叫思鄉的日本僑民都愛到這裡喝上一杯.

餐牌簡潔,加上每日精選,菜肴選擇不過三十:不少更是下酒食物,如雜錦香腸,火腿,豚煮伴麵包等.雖然都是西餐常見的名字,但餐牌上那日文拼音,為它們添上大和情懷.
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廚師只得一人,所以上菜慢,但都賣相精緻,貫徹日本人的認真嚴謹.先送上每日推介的assorted ham,原來是辣肉腸和風乾火腿。薄薄一片,卻有意想不到的咸滑脂香,油潤而帶辣,空口吃也不覺太咸,是送酒良品。最驚喜的是長得像黑橄欖的酒浸提子,咬下去爆出濃郁酒香,叫人驚喜又心醉!

和洋食的意粉沒了傳統意菜固有的框框,創意無限。而這晚吃的是cold pasta with tomatoes and basil,究竟是主菜或是沙律?
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和意大利的caprese一樣,意粉有黃,紅,綠三色,非常奪目.切碎的番茄多汁厚肉,和羅勒葉一樣充滿田野清新;幼身的天使麵以橄欖油和醋汁伴之.平常用很多油混合意粉都會很膩,但這麵因有醋汁的關係,吃下去不會太膩,加上冰凍的溫度,非常適合夏天食用!

蛋包飯既是和洋食的要員之一,亦是一個意外的結晶品:關於蛋包飯的來源有兩種說法,一說是位於銀座的煉瓦亭,為了提供又快又方便的伙食給員工,就把飯包進蛋中,想不到反而大受顧客歡迎.亦有一說是位於大阪的老店北極星,老闆發現客人愛點蛋捲和飯一起吃,就發明了糅合兩者的蛋包飯.

現在的蛋包飯亦分成兩種,一是把茄汁炒飯裹進蛋包的做法,二是因電影蒲公英而發明,將蛋包置於炒飯面,切開並展開,將蛋包舖滿飯面的做法.
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這裡雖沒說明,但提供的卻是第二種,伴以肉汁或茄汁.等了好一會兒才送上的蛋包飯還蒸著熱氣.蛋包不是漂亮的梭形.侍應迎上,有禮地問我們要否把它切開;然後就拿起小刀,緩慢而小心地把雞蛋切開.看著流心而金黃的蛋液被展開在肉汁上,真叫人食指大動!
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老實說,蛋雖嫩滑,但不算非常甜美,沒了日本雞蛋的濃烈甘香;茄汁炒飯雖夠酸,但飯粒過稔,看來用冷飯炒飯是中國人的獨特智慧.但加上咸香的肉汁,加上能夠在如此懷舊又寧靜,更叫客人誤以為到了日本的環境中用餐,瘕疵頓時變得無所謂,一切已足夠.
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臨時追加的蒜蓉油煮大蝦拼麵包,要等一會才準備好.大蝦浸在蒜油中,肉質爽口,但蝦味因蒜辣太濃被掩蓋掉.
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麵包切厚,點蒜油吃雖稍嫌油膩,但想到這本是送酒小吃,一切又變得理所當然.

不光是食物味道,更有日本人的嚴謹和堅持,令這間隱藏於大廈的優雅廚房,比不少所謂’日本’餐廳更正宗.
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真想不到在銅鑼灣鬧市中,仍有如此一個如此日本,如此懷舊的空間.
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
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Hygiene
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Dine In
Spending Per Head
$290 (Dinner)
Level4
2012-06-11 40 views
日本拉麵於香港,特別是銅鑼灣鬥得你死我活之際,這家由日本人主理的奄列飯小店靜靜地開張。更愛奄列和蛋包飯的我經常納悶,它們何時能如拉麵般掀起熱潮,讓食客多些選擇呢?平日的午餐時份,銅鑼灣逼滿用午饍的上班族,進店時竟發現座位多得很,只有兩枱日本食客,而我和友人小火車亦因而能靜靜地享受這頓公司地區外的午餐。店內只有少量四人枱和一張吧枱,黑色的皮椅和深啡色的木於日本的咖啡店不難找到,兩位男店員都說日文,加上來自大阪的日藉女廚師,更予我信心,能食到接近北極星的水準嘛?Set lunch包括餐湯、沙律、主菜和飲品,主菜除此之外,亦可選是日推介。我就點了是日推介的白汁海鮮奄列飯,小火車就一異食肉獸作風,要了流心芝士漢堡飯。是日餐湯是薯仔湯,看起來稀稀的,放進嘴裡,薯仔味卻濃郁得很,質感不似忌廉湯,夾雜著泡沫,猶如經過打奶般。是日沙律是吞拿魚通粉沙律,冰凍的沙律和熱騰騰的主菜同時上桌,欠點細心了。奄列飯是飯上舖著奄列,切開奄列,內裡是帶著蛋漿滑溜無比的蛋,和蛋包飯不同。店員上桌時沒為我切開,我只好自己來了。由於影相花了點時間,切開奄列時沒預期中的熱,白汁亦不夠熱,不夠過癮。奄列似乎不夠厚,切開來不夠澎
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日本拉麵於香港,特別是銅鑼灣鬥得你死我活之際,這家由日本人主理的奄列飯小店靜靜地開張。更愛奄列和蛋包飯的我經常納悶,它們何時能如拉麵般掀起熱潮,讓食客多些選擇呢?
平日的午餐時份,銅鑼灣逼滿用午饍的上班族,進店時竟發現座位多得很,只有兩枱日本食客,而我和友人小火車亦因而能靜靜地享受這頓公司地區外的午餐。
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店內只有少量四人枱和一張吧枱,黑色的皮椅和深啡色的木於日本的咖啡店不難找到,兩位男店員都說日文,加上來自大阪的日藉女廚師,更予我信心,能食到接近北極星的水準嘛?
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Set lunch包括餐湯、沙律、主菜和飲品,主菜除此之外,亦可選是日推介。我就點了是日推介的白汁海鮮奄列飯,小火車就一異食肉獸作風,要了流心芝士漢堡飯。
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是日餐湯是薯仔湯,看起來稀稀的,放進嘴裡,薯仔味卻濃郁得很,質感不似忌廉湯,夾雜著泡沫,猶如經過打奶般。
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是日沙律是吞拿魚通粉沙律,冰凍的沙律和熱騰騰的主菜同時上桌,欠點細心了。奄列飯是飯上舖著奄列,切開奄列,內裡是帶著蛋漿滑溜無比的蛋,和蛋包飯不同。店員上桌時沒為我切開,我只好自己來了。由於影相花了點時間,切開奄列時沒預期中的熱,白汁亦不夠熱,不夠過癮。奄列似乎不夠厚,切開來不夠澎湃,視覺上不夠震撼,參看下列片段就會明白我的期望。尤幸蛋漿仍在,蛋亦嫩滑,蛋味香濃,確是日本人的拿手菜~
奄列厚度不足
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蛋漿不夠澎湃
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茄汁海鮮炒飯炒得色澤均勻,飯可以炒得再乾身點;海鮮份量不少。白汁creamy不膩,但個人覺得配茄汁更好,白汁的話,還是與蘑菇、雞肉更合襯吧~
因健康理由,我甚少食白米,所以外出用饍多數會選米飯以外的主食。唯獨圓渾飽滿的珍珠米是我會讓我暫時放低這些自我限制。
飯尚可
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小火車的流心芝士漢堡是每日限定的,相信是店方每天新鮮自家製的。值得留意的是,雖然中文寫著流心芝士,但其實是翻譯不準確之誤,日文指的是半熔芝士漢堡。漢堡肉質不過實,但亦不會鬆散,肥瘦適中,仍保持些肉汁。可惜芝士份量略為少了點,牛肉燴汁很香,絕非連鎖奄列飯店所能比,用來拌飯一流,早知道以此跟奄列飯就好了。漢堡好像比飯還要大,食畢整碟,不禁有點膩滯。
漢堡不錯~
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最後來杯咖啡作結
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單論奄列飯,於香港而言算是不俗的了。食奄列飯,最愛就是看到切開時滑蛋夾雜著黃澄澄的蛋漿,嗅起來滿有蛋香,所以用料亦不能馬虎。最後,當然是味道,炒飯和奄列同樣重要。相較於日本食到的,這裡的還不俗。Set lunch價格亦算貼近日本的價位,未知晚市餐牌有何菜式?趁它還未有人潮之前,我會趕緊來多兩次,暫止我對日式奄列飯的慾望~


(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$110 (Lunch)
Recommended Dishes
漢堡不錯~