Louise

營業中

休息中

This Michelin 1-star restaurant offers French cuisine and is located at the historic two-storey building at PMQ, which used to be Police Married Quarters. Having visited almost five years ago, today we returned to see what Chef Loic Portalier has prepared for us.On the ground floor of the building is a bar and outdoor terrace for more casual drinks and dining, while ascending the stairs leads to the main dining room. Seated at a table on the window side looking out to the balcony, the décor is elegant, with warm lighting, a luxurious yet relaxing and comfortable setting. From my spot I also got the pleasure of seeing some of the actions in the kitchen at the back.We have chosen the Prestige Menu ($1,888 each) and I also go for the wine pairing ($1,088). For aperitif, I started with a glass of Eric Rodez Blanc de Blancs 37 edition ($228). This Grand Cru Champagne, made from grapes from Ambonnay, is a blend of 3+ vintages, with a floral and delicate nose, good acidity and highly refreshing.The Amuse Bouche is a Beef Consomme. The intensely flavourful broth has a creamy and rich Parmesan foam on top, scattered with some garlic croutons and chives to add to the texture and taste. Reminding me a bit of an espresso, it is delicious and the first time we have a broth for amuse bouche.The Homemade Sourdough has a crunchy crust while the inside is airy and light. With a cream cheese butter on the side, the bread are so good that we finished the two pieces straight away. The staff then kindly provides another serving which we also annihilate.The first wine paired is Taittinger Folies de la Marquetterie. This Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir growing on the hillsides around Chateau de la Marquetterie, where the Champagne House started, with a deep yellow colour and nice fruity bouquet of peaches, leading to toasted brioche and vanilla, and a full-bodied palate.The first course features Langoustine. The raw langoustine is chopped to small pieces and served in tartare fashion, mixed with some smoked cream. On top is a thin slice of tuile, which supplements crispness to the bite. The sauce is made with clementine and fir buds, to give the citrus vibrancy with a nice pine fragrance. Very pleasant and tasty.The second wine paired is Domaine Courbet Savagnin Sous Voile. This Jura wine aims to show the full potential of the varietal aged under flor but not into the vin jaune style. Having a nice almond and citrus peel note, together with honey and spices, plus the high acidity, it is the perfect complement with the food coming next.The second course is Caramelised Onion Tart. A buttery “Brioche Feuilletee” sits on the thick, creamy sabayon prepared together with vin jaune, infusing the sauce with the unique taste. With the caramelized onions on top, and together with Comte cheese cream, it is delicious and complex in taste.The third wine paired is Domaine Lambert Le Chenin d’a Cote, a Chenin Blanc from Chinon, with aromatic white flowers, plenty of fruit like apple, citrus, and stone fruit on the nose. The palate has good acidity, a sharp minerality, with chalky instead of the typical waxy characters found in the varietal from other parts of the Loire.The third course is Meuniere Frog Legs. Inside the bowl the chef put the butter poached frog legs, fully remove any bones, and cut into small pieces, together with cep and quenelles, which are essential fish meatballs famous in Lyon, before pouring in a watercress velouté, with a delicious peppery note. Together with some chives and croutons, it is phenomenally good. A must order.The fourth course features seasonal Morisseau Mussels, which are cultivated along the Brittany coast. The mussels are poached slightly and still retains the umami taste and tenderness, paired with a fennel salad and the sauce with Amalfi lemon for its citrusy freshness. There are some small Nduja pieces for additional savoury taste.The fourth wine paired is Benoit Ente Bourgogne. While the producer is less famous than his brother, this white wine is very pleasant and nice, with green apple, lemon zest, and white blossom on the nose, an elegant palate that has quite high acidity but not austere, plus nice minerality but not oaky.The fifth course features Brittany Dover Sole. Underneath the fish there is some cucumber puree together with grilled sweet peas, providing a nice combination of textures. On the side are the prized Kristal caviar, paired with the beurre blanc sauce. With some dill to add to the fragrance, the fish is very nicely seasoned and grilled, wonderful in taste.The fifth wine paired is Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino. Changing from French white to an Italian red, this wine has a rich nose, showing nice ripe cherries and raspberry, sweet spice, and some toasty cedar with hints of vanilla, also having a smooth palate and velvety tannin. A good match with game, and meats of leaner cut.The sixth course features “Fabien D’eneour” Brittany Pigeon. Served in two ways, in the centre is roasted pigeon breast with some pine nut crumble on top to give a crunchy bite. On the side is the shredded pigeon meat, stewed for long hours and covered with pastry. Together with confit fennel and onions, and “Sauce Diable”, of black pepper condiments, it is another great dish.The sixth wine paired is M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Rimage. With lots of dried fruit, this fortified sweet Banyuls has plenty of coffee, toffee, and nuts. Made from 100% Grenache, it is powerful in nose yet has still got a nice acidity to bring freshness on the palate, making it a good complement with dessert made with chocolate.  The seventh and final course features “Tulakalum” Dark Chocolate. The single origin chocolate comes from Belize and has nice tangy notes, sitting on top of caramelised sourdough ice cream, with toasted sourdough crisp. Together with some cocoa nibs praline and a drizzle of whisky for fragrance, the chocolate wraps up this wonderful meal.The Petits Fours is homemade Canele which are not too sweet, with a crunchy surface, and a nice vanilla taste, pairing well with a cup of espresso to finish. The restaurant also provides a couple of Madeleine for us to bring back home as snacks, both good in taste. It is a satisfying and enjoyable meal throughout.Service is great, with the staff friendly, helpful and attentive. Chef Loic Portalier also comes to our table to introduce the main course and interact with us. The bill on the night is $5,864. If you want to enjoy nice French cuisine in a more relaxing ambience, Louise is a good place, and in cooler season can also consider dining on the balcony too. 繼續閱讀

為了慶祝媽媽的生日，我們選擇了位於PMQ的一間法國餐廳享用早午餐。這間餐廳雖然在今年失去了米芝蓮一星的光環，但人氣依舊不減，可見其魅力非凡。餐廳的法式風格設計與PMQ的歷史建築巧妙融合，營造出一種優雅而舒適的氛圍，讓人一進門就感到賞心悅目。招牌黃油雞作為香港四大名雞之一，這道招牌黃油雞絕對是餐廳的亮點。雞皮烤得金黃酥脆，肉質卻依然保持嫩滑多汁，輕輕帶有海鹽和迷迭香的香氣，完美呈現了雞肉的原汁原味，令人驚喜不已。搭配的雞油飯同樣令人印象深刻，飯粒焗得恰到好處，軟硬適中，飯面上還鋪滿了炸得酥脆的雞皮，增添了豐富的口感。份量十足，性價比極高，絕對是必點之選。魚子醬昆布黑松露天使麵這道菜是我個人最喜愛的菜式之一。一上桌，黑松露的濃郁香氣便撲鼻而來，令人食指大動。魚子醬的鹹香與昆布的鮮味完美融合，搭配上酸酸的天使麵，口感層次豐富，味道新穎獨特。每一口都能感受到廚師的巧思與用心，讓人回味無窮。 繼續閱讀

論用餐時間先後，本應先寫 LaLa ，那一家由 La Brasserie 改名 LaLa 的法國小酒館，發現那邊廂熱鬧得很，食家在評價 LaLa  😬。小妹怕熱鬧，見 Louise 熱度已經沒有那樣火紅，午餐不難訂位，於是先寫 Louise 。而且 LaLa 其中一位 chef 出身 Louise，Louise 食評理應行先。正如講岸田周三，縱然青出於藍，還是可以先提師傅 Pascal Barbot 一樣呢。∫ PMQPMQ 即前 Police Married Quarters。Louise 位於 PMQ 中的 Central Junior Police Call Clubhouse (‘JPC’)。PMQ 原為政府建築，重實效，缺特色，當然沒有美學心思，唯在當代眼光去看，PMQ 本身（活化與否）已經不再是警察宿舍，而是經年月洗練之歷史建築物，可有更多方面去欣賞它啦，例如英國人來到熱帶地方（香港是亞熱帶的 😬☝🏽）的建築風格 —— 騎樓、陽台，吊扇啦；時光荏苒，建築物用途的演變啦，等等。∫ JPC 裡的 LouiseLouise 內部設計是 André Fu 的作品，在 Leela 食評中，小妹對 André 為 Leela 設計的 dining room 大加讚賞，推推自己的食評 🤭（《『刹帝利』的午餐，雖斧痕略深，然而細意隆重》2025 年 6 月 21 日），在此不多說了。JPC 窗口用塗了綠色的舊式鐵（不是鋁）的窗框，天花板都用了相同色調。鐵造的窗框小妹不陌生，小時候住的舊宅，就是用鐵窗框喔，小妹對那舊建築十分喜愛，除了寬敞得驚人之外，就是實而不華的裝修，窗外綠蔭處處 。Louise 的內部當然已經很富時代感啦。今日 casual lunch 在地下的 parlour，稱為 La Terrace by Louise，樓上才是 main dining room 。La Terrace 一邊是吧桌，另一邊是 parlour 用餐地方。好了，看看今天的午餐啦。先來一杯 All Day Spritz，居然味道不錯喔 😎。******∫ Bread and Butter****∫ Amuse-bouche | Sago & Mimolette ‘Arancini’****本來用 risotto 的 Arancini，risotto 改成西米 🙄，芝士用法國的 mimolette 代替同樣是硬芝士的 parmesan cheese，炸成小球（其實是小方塊與小球之間啦），香脆與鬆軟拿捏得好 。Mimolette 令 Arancini 帶深深橙黃，令這個開胃菜甚為悅目，用西米，咬下去口感也跟義大利飯不同，味道底蘊誠然也跟 parmesan cheese 分別頗大，不過依然美味，只是未必勝過傳統用 risotto 及 parmesan cheese 喔。∫ Angel Hair Pasta | “Kaviari” Kristal Caviar | Black Truffle****吃這個 pasta course 是要加 $188 啦 ☝🏽😬。Angel hair 弄得不好，很容易 overcooked 的，小妹在《八部半》就吃過 overcooked 的 angel hair 了。 Pasta 烹調完美。微無昆布和香草配魚子醬味道上本是絕佳選擇，只是加埋 black truffle，是否有加入 truffle oil ?  氣味有點過火。不過，喜歡氣味濃烈的朋友，應該滿意 100 分嘅，小妹則認為松露氣味稍輕更佳。這道菜 Bâtard 也有，擺盤、烹調和水準相約，記憶中 Bâtard 松露味道沒有這樣濃烈。東京代官山 Aso 的冷義大利麵配魚子醬，那道前菜清麗怡人。日本除了法國菜，義大利料理也不得了呢。小妹覺得沒有濃烈的黑松露，Aso 清澈澄明的義大利麵配魚子醬更為王道 。主角當然是 ∫ Roasted Yellow Chicken | Niigata Rice | Salad | Chicken Jus 啦。****朋友間會熱烈討論那裡的雞最好🤭，有堅持 Louise 的烤雞全港第一，有人認為是 Bâtard，小妹沒有那麼執著，為甚麼？因為法國人的 Poulet Rôti —— Roast Chicken —— 是很普遍，Sunday roast 家庭菜式，很多地方都做得很好吃，斷定那處最好根本沒有公論。還有三黃雞大路不過，購買並不困難（你話要 Bresse chicken 就頭痛啫）。雖然做得完美不容易，烤雞是不必專業廚房才能勝任的菜喔。小妹在家也有做，普通焗爐「游刃有餘」，如有家裡焗爐有 rotisserie 功能（可以串著雞身慢轉的棒）當然更好。不想用三黃雞？IFC 那家貴貴超市有不少法國雞賣（偶爾有 Bresse chicken 添 😌）。Louise 當然沒有那麼簡單。小妹認為 Louise 的烤雞是有水準的。據知 Louise 把雞先 brined（用香草鹽水浸），然後蒸熟，再風乾，最後烤到皮金黃，需時幾天，雞皮是脆中帶一定爽韌度，不是如 crisp 那樣脆到一咬粉碎那種。Brining process 令雞肉入味，white meat 不柴，brown meat 嫩滑，有人說雞的烹調有參差，小妹不能否認，只能說今天的（如上圖）相當滿意。既然今個食評叫「閒說法國雞料理種種」，小妹想對比一下今天的 poulet rôti 和 poulet en cocotte 及 poule au pot，幾種法國全隻雞料理中烹調雞的方法和特色。小妹朋友吃雞，多喜歡脆脆的皮的，雞皮香脆與否視乎烤焗時候雞皮是否直接暴露焗爐的熱源下，法國的全隻雞料理中，很傳統和經典的 poulet en cocotte，把原隻雞放在大大橢圓型嘅 casserole pot 中，然後放進焗爐烤，皮不會如 poulet rôti 那樣金黃焦脆的。所以要搞清楚自己像吃雞皮香脆點的 poulet rôti，還是很嫩滑如像蒸雞和古法鹽焗雞之間般的 poulet en cocotte（「砂鍋」雞） 喔 ☝🏽😎。至於 poule au pot（寫作 poule 而非 poulet，即必定用母雞啦）， 則把全隻雞 poach in broth，所以是浸雞，沒有脆脆的皮，只有 broth 中香料的芬芳融貫雞身。浸熟過程不能令雞 overcooked，不然變了煲湯雞肉啦 🫤。 poule au pot 之外，還有 poulet en vessie（豬肚雞）（或者叫 volaille en vessie）。後者為更高階的料理，小妹在 Paul Bocuse 吃過正宗做法，在香港只在 Gaddi’s 吃過（《『白松露』與『豬肚雞』》2024 年 12 月 29 日），此處不贅，又推推自己嘅食評🤭。好了，回到今天的 roast chicken 啦。∫ Chicken Jus 跟所有烤雞一樣，Louise 的 roast chicken 跟有 chicken jus 的（沒有拍照了🥺）。幾家烤雞的 jus 都各有所長，但是小妹對 Aroma Wine Bistro 的 jus 印像特別深刻，因為肉香非常濃郁，有點牛肉 jus 的底蘊。∫ Niigata Rice  ****Niigata Rice 也是搪瓷鑄鐵砂鍋煮飯，即是 en cocotte 的。還有 chicken skin、onion 和 chive。飯味道豐富香濃（因為用了雞油煮），蔥和洋蔥加埋脆雞皮，不但令飯更香，口感也多樣化。只是飯比較濕潤，反而 LaLa 的煮得完美。至於 size，Louise 則大很多呢 🤩。∫ Romaine Lettuce Salad ****當然還有羅馬生菜沙律，也加入 onion and chives ，香之餘，蔬菜也新鮮爽脆呢。∫ Île Flottante | Pistachio | Caramel | Vanilla Ice Cream****傳統的「浮島」(Floating Island) 法國甜點 。本來遐想 Louise 會把這款 simple and humble 的農家甜點打扮得花枝招展。然而端上桌子上的「浮島」，擺盤中規中矩，味道，就是多了開心果，也中規中矩，及格有餘，未算驚艷。小妹也許要多說一句，傳統的，或者一般在法國遇到的 floating island 甜品，比較「寫意」，drizzle of caramel sauce 拉著長長條紋，絲絲橙紅之色隨意散落「島」上和「海」中，更加美麗喔。∫ Mint Tea****今天午餐蠻豐富的，小妹 skipped coffee，喝一杯 mint tea，解解膩，完美的 finale 啦。∫ 總結Louise 的午餐，服務周到專業，沒有待慢客人，是 90 分啦，唯稍欠 personal touch 而已，小妹認為這樣的小酒館，服務親切一點更佳 。食物呢，不是不可以投訴嘅，例如義大利麵黑松露味道有點霸道，誠然那是口味濃淡的問題，小妹不會吹毛求疵，整體來說，烤雞完美，甜品雖然未到驚艷境地，給個笑臉 😊 不應猶豫。小妹喜歡午餐為主餐，不單因為有多點時間消化，而且很多時候，可以更清楚地欣賞用餐地方（如果餐廳漂亮，不欣賞清楚也是浪費一種）。像今天 Louise 的午餐，晚上來就未能像午後一樣，享受到  parlour 陽光透窗而入，由餐廳望出去則點滴綠蔭，色溫暖和，讓心靈稍稍離開都市煩囂的寧逸 😌。  繼續閱讀

Dinner in the upstairs dining room. Server noted that only the terrace downstairs offered the signature chicken in half portions. 2 of us couldn’t possibly finish a whole chicken so the Tasting Menu ($1,588 pp) was a no brainer.Wine list was good. Went for glasses of Chardonnay and Pinot. Here’s what we had. Velvety pea velouté topped with a smoky, airy non spicy chorizo foam and crispy crouton bits.Sour dough served with spread made with Soy Sauce, Crème Fraîche, Yogurt and Pumpkin Seeds.Pan-Seared Pineapple on a bed of Smoked Sardines, Pine Nuts, and Yellow Peach, lifted by a tomato water–soy sauce–basil dressing that tied everything together.Caramelised Onion Tart elevated with onions from the south of France, melting Comté, and a hit of Vin Jaune’s nutty acidity. Base was brioche feuilletée— think croissant met tart shell: rich, buttery, and flaky pastry with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Sauce was a savoury egg yolk-based sabayon.Plump and sweet Brittany Morisseau Mussels served with Amalfi Lemon and fennel salad and puree spread of chorizo–seaweed butter.Brittany Dover Sole, tender and flakey, served with grilled sweet peas, dill oil and beurre blanc, enriched with pike roe. Roasted local Chicken with crisp skin and juicy flesh served alongside a simple, bitter green salad; Niigata short-grain rice (which I felt was a bit too oily). Binding it all together: deep, glossy chicken jus. Creamy soft rice pudding topped with salted caramel crisps on a layer of light milk foam; served with vanilla ice cream.Birthday madeleines on the house.Last but not least: the canelés that I was really looking forward to, arguably one of the best in HK. In summary: refined, seasonally attuned tasting menu that fused French technique with Japanese elements and local produce. A grounded but elegant meal where delicate vegetables, pristine seafood and cultured dairy were underpinned by layered sauces. 繼續閱讀

🌟用親民價錢歎米芝蓮一星法國菜！🇫🇷🍷終於試到被稱為「中環四大名雞」之一嘅Louise開設的平價法式小餐館～冇fine dining咁拘謹，啱晒約班friend/屋企人聚餐！😋🍽️✨以下係嗰日叫咗嘅：🧀Sago & Mimolette “Arancini” $78外脆內軟芝士西米炸波波，仲有微辣，一食難忘！🐌Escargots | Beurre Persillé $148鮮嫩蝸牛🐌以香草牛油🧈與蒜香🧄烹調，完全唔油膩😍🫔Pâté en Croûte $198法式肉凍派，酥皮包鴨胸鴨肝，內臟味重嘅要諗清楚⚠️🍝Gnocchi “A La Parisienne $258巴黎式黑松露薯檲 配忌廉芝士醬～煙韌又邪惡！🥙Traditional Beef Tartare $318牛肉他他 席前調味，完全冇鐵銹味，牛味香濃，係我食過數一數二好食嘅牛肉他他🤫🥩Australian Black Angus Ribeye $728澳洲黑安格斯肉眼扒 份量十足，配埋貢布紅胡椒醬 肉味超香！🐔½ Roasted Yellow Chicken | Niigata Rice $488招牌三黃雞反而最令我哋失望😖雖然唔清楚同本店嘅質素會唔會係一樣，但係今次食嘅呢隻雞略嫌冇咩調味，食落冇咩特別。新瀉米雞油飯記得要加埋雞汁一齊食，如果唔係會有啲油膩🤣🥞Crêpes Suzette $98Crêpes+桔仔雪葩，甜酸平衡，好食💯🥨Paris Brest榛子泡芙 $108榛子忌廉超香濃！ 繼續閱讀