囍宴廚‧藝 (已結業)

Xi Yan Hong Kong

3.5

68 食評

味道

環境

服務

衛生

抵食

774

灣仔

$101-200

京川滬私房菜

MM1970

等級4

687

在朋友的安排下,又一次來特別的私房菜聚會, 地點是在一商業大廈之內, 新派中菜的環境比一般中式私房菜來得整潔和有情調; 和朋友們邊喝邊等.

約莫八時左緊開始上第一個頭盤"胡麻溫室茄",單看賣相已有點先聲奪人,三個網球大的溫室蕃茄配上輕清的麻醬汁,味道配合得均衡可口; 再來"阿姨仁稔",仁稔味道有連樣梅子般, 質感偏硬吃喜來十分特別.再來的"南乳脆花腩"味道類似街頭小食牛耳,而質感偏向煙韌. "秘製凍豆腐"的賣相亦是十分特別, 茄子,肉鬆, 豆腐, 醬油等分次序的構成這一道菜,吃起來質感豐富; "柑桔蜜香煎黃金蠔"一道加上金薄的精緻菜式, 金蠔味道香濃肉質偏韌,柑桔味道適中正好作為蠔香味的點綴.

五個前菜已吃了接近一個小時, 再來是主菜的部份, 先來的是"口水雞", 記憶中主要配料包括有雞肉, 粉皮, 皮蛋等等, 痳辣味道充足而且口感豐富, 一向對痳辣敬而遠之, 亦追加了兩三次, 直至滿頭大汗方停下手來喝喝燒酌. 接著來的是"香茅蝦膏炸鮮斑", 炸鮮斑十分香口爽脆, 但肉質有點偏鞋. 個人還是喜歡清蒸的做法. "糯米蒸牛肉"原籠上桌, 牛腱肉質很腍, 肉味充足, 記憶中牛肉的比例多於糯米; 連續三個重量級的主菜後正好來一個石榴雪芭清清胃口,以便再迎接餘下的菜式, 這樣的鋪排感覺上倒有點像在吃法國晚餐似的.

接上來的是"鮮人蔘煲雞湯", 湯味香濃可口; "年年有餘"一個香滑的魚餅配上干瑤柱, 魚餅質感偏腍, 味道輕清; 最後來的"老少報喜", 是以梅菜炒嫩苗, 名字很有心思, 味道十分特別. 最後來的腰果露加上湯圓, 味道不太甜, 而且腰果露潤滑容易入口, 一下子又清去了一碗多; 最後還有一小杯青檸飲品來一解油膩. 道別時亦已接近十一時正.

整體上由食物味道, 賣相, 編排, 環境, 服務, 價值等等已是無微不緻. 很滿意的一餐~

參考資料
頭盤:
胡麻溫室茄
阿姨仁稔
秘製凍豆腐
南乳脆花腩
柑桔蜜香煎黃金蠔

主菜:
口水雞
香茅蝦膏炸鮮斑
糯米蒸牛肉
石榴雪芭
鮮人蔘煲雞湯
年年有餘
老少報喜

甜品:
腰果露

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chaxiubao

等級2

When Xi Yan started about 4 years ago, many wondered if Hong Kong is ready to sustain a speakeasy (a.k.a. private kitchen) of the caliber that Xi Yan aspired to be. Four years and countless speakeasies that came and went later, Xi Yan's pull proved to be ever soaring. Testimony one: it is the only speakeasy in Hong Kong to have its chef co-hosting a TV food show. Testimony two: it still has the longest waiting list in town even after the expansion -- they are constantly booking out over two months in advance, the longest in Hong Kong (it was 6 months before the expansion)!

Unlike so many so-called "private" kitchens that shout for attention, Xi Yan prevails solely by word of mouth. Unassuming outlook is an inadequate description, unnoticeable is more accurate: there is no signage for the whereabouts of it on the streets, not even on the very building it resided. Yet with the information, the address given by your friend, you’ll find it on the third floor of a run-down commercial building in Wanchai, quite, secluded and exclusive. Enter, sit down and enjoy and you’ll understand why this dining room that seats fifty at a stretch is blustered with gourmands of Hong Kong every evening.

The interior is pleasing to the eyes. Small and dandy with designer-chic decor in redish tone. Walls are cramped with modern Chinese paintings with a whirligig touch. You enter with the resonance that you’re having dinner in a stylish dining room of a trendy Asian friend of yours.

As with most speakeasies, there’s only pre-fixe menu available. On the night we tried, there were 5 starters, one soup, 6 main courses and one dessert. It ran the gamut from Sichuanese to Cantonese to, well, French with dishes infused with inspirations or ingredients from Japan, Korea, Vietnam and etc. It sort of reminded me those discovery/tasting menus in the Michelin-starred restaurants where every dish come in diminutive portion so that the clientele can sample more of the chef's virtuosity in one setting. Much to our gang of diners' delight, all the dishes were executed with care and precision.

We instigated the dinner with a succession of starters, a stream of five, that were unlike any I have ever had in a Chinese dining table, opening our palates for what followed...

1. Greenhouse tomatoes with sesame jus. Tomatoes fresh from Japan was adorned with housemade sesame jus. Neither of them overwhelmed another. Fresh, sweet and smooth.

2. Nutmeg "a la Classic." More an amuse bouche than an appetizer. It is a kind of nuts akin of olive in size, lightly marinated in grandma’s way. It's skin reminded me of fig's, but firmer; its flesh reminded me of prune's but oozed a more aromatic flavor. Very pleased for the re-discovery of a fading classic.

3. Homemade cold bean curd. Bean curd (a.k.a. tofu) bathed in a homemade soy sauce mix anointed with yolk of salted eggs and dried shrimps. It scored perfect 10 for look and taste. 100 per cent refreshing, 100 per cent ambrosia.

4. Deep-fried pork belly with red tofu sauce. After three cold starters, this hot entree stirred a contrast to the our palates. The fried belly, in perfect portion of fat and lean -- the fat and the skin part was crispy and crackling while the lean and flesh part was tender and moist.

5. Seared oyster with tangerine honey jus. Dried oysters battered with tangerine honey were gently seared. A smidgen of gold crust were sprinkled on top. Dazzling and glistening.

Next up were the main courses, which were equally good.

1. Sichuan chili chicken. A staple in the menu. The menu changes every other night but this spicy chicken is a stalwart. Two versions are available: the super hot one and the milder one. A more modernized and eclectic cover of an otherwise Sichuan blase, in my opinion. Some minced preserved eggs and peanuts were added as well. Normally I would join the queue for fusion-bashing but this time I liked it very much.

2. Glutinous rice steamed with beef shank. The beef was marinated the night before so every drops of the condiment was embedded. The glutinous rice, steamed together with the beef, absorbed the essence of the beef to the fullest. Another Sichuanese fare brillantly taken.

3. Deep-fried grouper on a bed of shredded pomelo flesh. The grouper was lightly coated with shrimp roe puree and marinated with lemongrass before the deep-fried. A Vietnamese inspired fare, may I suggest? The presentation shown Jacky was totally in his element: the fish so skillfully fried that it was still in a lively posture when brought to table. And the timing was perfect too. Crunchy on the skin yet moist on the flesh.

4. Just like an interlude in a great musical, a homemade guava sorbet was presented as palate cleanser. Very non-Chinese; very haute cuisine of French, I must add.

5. After the ice-cold sorbet was the steaming hot chicken consommwith ginseng. Posting an stark contrast to the palate with cold and hot. A perfect take of a Korean classic.

6. Homemade fish and lotus root pudding. Elegant in presentation. However, prepare for the only snag of the night: our gang of diners conferred and agreed this was the one of less compelling dishes of the meal. The pudding was too soft and the flavor wasn't distinctive to draw admiration.

7. Stir-fried pea shoots. Lightly fried organic greens dotted with a tad of preserved turnip chops. Simple but refreshing.

The finale, was the homemade dessert of sweetened cashew nut cream soup. Flavorful and smooth.

In all, the dinner was a show of Jacky's modernized interpretations of traditional cuisine, presented afresh for a new generation. After the meal, I understood why the full name of Xi Yan is called Xi Yan Culinary Art. Instead of naming itself a private kitchen, the use of the name culinary art shows exactly what, after all, Jacky, cares about. And like the name suggest, a dinner there was indeed a Xi Yan, meaning "a banquet of joy" in English.

The service was impeccable throughout the dinner with no corkage charged

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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Gourmet KC

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7.5K

183

私房菜少吃，因為個人而言不太喜歡樓上舖的格局，亦不常吃得到有水準的，所以是少吃。是晚多得牛油果的安排，我們一眾食友在這裡作團年聚，亦吃到一餐很有水準的菜，不單賣相精美、各種食物在表達、擺放及食具的配搭上很有心思、材料及味道亦甚出色，可以這樣說，是吃過最出色的私房菜，絕對是沒有介紹錯的。
地方雖然略窄，但環境不錯，佈置亦甚雅致，以私房菜來說是好的了。

今次雖然人多，酒卻是意外的比平時為少，除了MM1970寬兩支紅酒，因為有口水雞，也帶了一支黑糖燒酌來湊熱鬧。可能因為近來飲醉的事件太多，大家都要收歛一下吧！餐前又例必有小吃助興，今次就是Ray兄遠道由占高麗國帶回來的泡菜及鹽味紫菜，真的多謝晒！

前菜五味，第一道是胡麻溫室茄，三隻圓圓的去皮溫室茄，在長型的盛器中一字排開，淋上啡色的麻醬汁，上面放著三塊小薄荷葉，賣相極美。蕃茄已開八份，吃起來全無難度。味道清甜，麻醬汁的味道又剛好蓋過蕃茄本身的微腥味，感覺清新，唔錯；
之後是阿姨仁稔，啡色圓圓的仁稔以三排三粒的，放在圓碟裡，上面放了隻小青椒，淋上醬汁，賣相亦佳。平時用仁稔醬蒸排骨就多，但凍食當前菜還是第一次。酸酸地，有點涼口，作為開胃菜都不俗；南乳脆花腩是牛油果的推介，當然要試真點。豬腩片似炸得乾乾的，吃落一陣南乳香，同類座的伯母都一致認為味道似牛耳。腩肉吃落煙韌，應是連皮炸的效果，表面主要以薯粉作炸粉，較為脆及硬身，亦為送啤酒的佳品；秘製凍豆腐是一磚豆腐埋上厚厚的肉鬆、蛋黃等佐料，配以混有麻醬的深色醬汁，上面放一隻小茄子，又是單看看，已是好享受。豆腐細嫩軟滑，應是日本的娟豆腐。配咸又帶脆口的肉鬆及蛋黃，加酸酸地又帶麻醬香的醬汁，味道配合得好，唔簡單！最後一味頭盤是柑桔蜜香煎黃金蠔，放在小圓碟內，上面有片金，賣相又係一絲不苟。煎金蠔較濃味，佐以酸甜的柑桔蜜醬汁，很是配合。金蠔不算大隻，反而剛好，再多就過膩了！

主菜六味加一個湯，先來招牌菜口水雞。一個大圓盤盛著已拆骨的雞肉，上面除了舖滿蔥、蒜及香菜外，還有一隻大紅椒，看樣子已經非同非響。雞肉一吃便知是新鮮雞，肉質有彈性，更以雞腿為主，口感更鮮嫩。和上帶微酸的麻辣汁，第一淡是不覺太辣，之後留在口中的辣油就發揮作用，越吃越辣，亦越來越麻，在香港吃了不少的口水雞或麻辣菜，這裡的麻辣雞是非常出色。伴碟的粉皮及皮蛋更可將麻辣感覺，推上高峰，非常有水準！引得坐在減辣檯的專食cheap野兄及辣椒女都來分一杯羹，渴著燒酌，吃又麻又辣的口水雞，誠樂事！

雞之後便是魚，這味香茅蝦膏炸鮮斑賣相亦不俗，炸魚可以擺得如此有動感，是在下油鍋時已開始要做功夫。如牛油果所言，這條雖說是炸魚，但肉質不乾，仍然豐腴味美，是用油淋熟的效果。老實講，吃不到蝦膏味，但卻有淡淡的香茅味道。嫩滑魚肉，加上脆炸的魚皮，配上伴碟的柚子肉，是個人味覺上的新體驗，好掂！糯米蒸牛肉用一蒸籠上，牛肉其實是厚厚的牛腱，如大婆牛肉麵及毓民牛肉麵一般的，又腍又入味，有水準。墊底的蒸糯米飯嫌油膩一點，又全餐也沒米下肚，如果有多一點就好了。不過相信沒有飯瘾的食友，到這裡已飽得七七八八；

接著就是Olivian雙眼發光的時候，因為石榴雪芭上檯了。雪芭雖不及雪糕般幼滑，但淡淡的石榴味起著清洗味蕾的作用，如牛油果所說，是為後來的雞湯作準備。個人而言，如吃中菜，不太習慣在中途加入凍食，如果是個涼菜會好一點；鮮人蔘煲雞湯已是分好才上檯，味道淳和濃厚，相信用來做口水雞的頭頸胸部份都拿了去熬湯，所以就算是飽，都不禁添了一碗；隨湯之後是個叫年年有餘的菜，是蒸芋頭及魚餅，可能是近新年，所以才起個意頭名。魚餅做得不實，反而同芋頭鬆化的口感很配合，作為飽肚的菜色，比炒個飯麵來得有心思；最後是菜，老少報喜即梅菜跟嫩豆苗的組合。撈入醬汁，埋在一起盛在一大碗內，賣相幾得意。味道清淡，全靠梅菜粒提味，作為結尾的一味都不錯。

甜品是養顏腰果露，口感幼滑，腰果味香，一丁點兒膉味也沒有，是炒腰果的功夫了得。雖說都是即磨，但即磨腰果糊絕對比花生及芝麻難做，因為腰果是幾難炒的。腰果糊內還有芋圓兩粒，如沒吃錯，是芋泥加蕃薯再和上糯米粉搓成，比一般有餡的湯丸又再心思。

最後以一杯青檸雞尾作結，牛油果還特地提醒大家，因加入威士忌，所以酒精度不低，當然以酒過幾旬的我們來說，是如渴清水。

侍應招呼很好，對菜色熟悉又服務周到，反應又快，要拿任何東西也都即時送到，服務一項是毫無疑問的拿滿分。

埋單320蚊，如計實數，只三百以下。以各類菜色的色、香、味計，個人而言是絕對的超值。須知去九唔搭八的鬼佬扒房，單鋸個人人煎到的牛扒，都不止此數。所以喜歡吃的，是絕對值得一試。

而這裡是我千多間食肆的第三間滿分食肆。

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238

我幫襯的時間是2004年10月1日, 遲左o黎寫...不過那晚我們每位的收費是$500...乜有$3XX這個價咩???上個weekend在大婆台見到囍宴個大廚Jacky同黃德如主持飲食節目...諗起果晚去囍宴食晚飯...每道菜都有驚喜...仲有, 隔離檯關芝琳同她ex-bf黃家諾都是當晚的客人...那時芝芝仲未修哂身...總之當晚,我們成檯人都好滿意.

我幫襯的時間是2004年10月1日, 遲左o黎寫...不過那晚我們每位的收費是$500...乜有$3XX這個價咩???
上個weekend在大婆台見到囍宴個大廚Jacky同黃德如主持飲食節目...諗起果晚去囍宴食晚飯...每道菜都有驚喜...仲有, 隔離檯關芝琳同她ex-bf黃家諾都是當晚的客人...那時芝芝仲未修哂身...
總之當晚,我們成檯人都好滿意.

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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美食焚化爐

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2.7K

叫我品評既話,我只可以講,由第一碟上檯至完結,都令我有意想不到既驚喜,三百幾蚊,我都話值.但係下次再去,唔知又有乜野新菜色呢?我好懷念個蕃茄,自己試下整先,好正,亦要多謝果姐安排.

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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kkkkkkkkkkkkkk

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苦等一個多月，今晚食完：如果要用一個字形容就只得個"正" 字如果可以加多一個字，就係"好抵"如果可以再加多一個字，就係"好新鮮"如果可以重加多一個字，就係"好有心思"如果可以重再加多一個字，就係"色香味俱全"我好少食到d咁有驚喜既中菜。再次多謝牛油果介紹。

苦等一個多月，今晚食完：

如果要用一個字形容就只得個"正" 字
如果可以加多一個字，就係"好抵"
如果可以再加多一個字，就係"好新鮮"
如果可以重加多一個字，就係"好有心思"
如果可以重再加多一個字，就係"色香味俱全"

我好少食到d咁有驚喜既中菜。再次多謝牛油果介紹。

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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black bird

等級1

If you are only a secretary and call this restaurant to book a table, you have to wait until 2046. But if you book for your boss (of course very important boss), you can book the table for tomorrow.

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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報定案先，老細兼大廚係我的朋友，不過我冇股份的，嘻嘻！

今年生日最重頭的一餐就係黎久未幫襯的喜宴食私房菜，佢未黎依家呢層時，一晚只可以坐兩圍半人，而且一晚一round，訂位要成半年。依家地方大左，仍然係一晚一round，訂檯快者一個半月就有，不過價錢亦都貴左，平日要360元一位，星期日做海鮮餐，每位要480元。個人認為大廚係好有心機煮每道菜，而且裝盤亦好認真，係做倒佢標榜的廚加藝兼備，但從材料來看的確係偏貴，抵唔抵食係見仁見智。

講番食物，冷盤有五款，依次為胡麻溫室茄、阿姨仁稔、秘製肉鬆伴冷豆腐、芝麻脆花腩同芥末雲耳。主菜有鮑汁蘿蔔、口水雞、糯米粉蒸肉、香茅檸檬炸海班、梅子石榴、椰子炖雞湯、冬梅迎翠竹。甜品係自製香蕉雪糕。

胡麻溫室茄即係用涼拌溫室蕃茄，四個去左皮的粉紅蕃茄原隻放在長碟上﹝其實每隻已切成八件﹞，淋上麻醬調的汁，再配上薄荷葉，單是賣相已非常討好。溫室蕃茄味道鮮甜而冇腥味，入口是非常清新，麻醬汁味道不會太濃，令蕃茄本身的味道保持鮮明，好味。阿姨仁稔係傳統醃漬食品，入口好有家庭味，個人認為送白粥一流，不過呢一味唔係人人鍾意食的。秘製肉鬆伴冷豆腐其實係好家常的一道菜，雪白的一大方絹豆腐置於灑左麻醬的黑醋汁上，上面鋪滿炸脆左的乾蔥，再灑滿肉鬆，頂上放左一大隻鮮黃色的大辣椒，賣相是不錯，味道亦佳。呢一味係同檯大部份女仔的至愛，個人則認為係不過不失，因不見功夫。芝麻脆花腩係我是晚的冠軍，薄薄的花腩充滿南乳味，外裹一屠薄粉同芝麻，香脆美味而且一點都不油膩，係見功力之作！芥末雲耳味道OK，用的汁料卻唔係太食倒芥末味，係不過不失的一味。

主菜方面，鮑汁蘿蔔是將用鮑汁炆好的蘿蔔切成圓段﹝每段已切成四件﹞，一排五個上碟，賣相亦是不俗。鮑汁不會太膩，但蘿蔔略嫌有點苦澀味，相信是主廚想保持食材原味而沒有用冰糖煮，但所用蘿蔔卻不夠好呢！口水雞是招牌菜，開業以來，菜單點轉都仍然保留在案。由於同檯都不嗜辣，所以辣油另上，雞肉是拆了骨的，配上滑滑粉皮同皮蛋、芫茜，是非常美味的一道菜，可惜我們食的是少辣版，未能品嚐口水雞的麻辣。糯米粉蒸肉是另一驚喜之作，竹籠內是荷葉包著的糯米及非常軟腍的牛﹝真係腍到用筷子輕輕一夾便分閞﹞，荷葉的香味消除了牛肉的油膩，係另一見功夫之作。不過同檯有人認為糯米太少，唔夠喉。香茅檸檬炸海班係將成條海班油炸，再淋上香茅檸檬汁，味道不錯，不過條魚有D瘦，唔係太多肉食，個汁幾清新，可以在中場時份為大家消消滯。梅子石榴是間場的涼拌食品，石榴用梅子醃過，多了一點微酸和有深度的甜味，廚師為左美觀，加入左富士蘋果，紅綠相間，賣相自然是好的。石榴本身「鞋鞋地」的質感可以去除味蕾上的殘渣，老人家話可以增進食慾同清潔口腔呢！間場目的是為了令大家可以好好品嚐下一道椰子炖雞湯，呢一味係樸實的一道，湯好清而帶椰香，幾好。冬梅迎翠竹係敗筆的一味，冬梅即梅菜，翠竹係西洋菜莖，兩者味道實在唔夾，食起來是梅菜還梅菜，西洋菜還西洋菜，各不相干。

最後係甜品─香蕉雪糕。雪糕顏色微啡，明顯是因為新鮮香蕉肉沒有添加阻止甪氧化的檸檬汁，因為後者會影響香蕉的味道。香蕉雪糕好有香蕉味，而且非常滑，好好味，不過我已經食得好飽，冇能力添食了。同檯兩位有多一個甜品胃的女士就添食多一份，犀利！完場係一個shooter ，酸酸地，有青檸的香味，好醒胃。大廚話明有加入酒精類如威士忌等，但因為飲落唔太覺有酒味，所以同檯一位不嬲一飲酒就唔掂的女仔連飲左兩杯，結果落到街已變身為一隻小溫室茄！

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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囍宴 廚‧藝 (已結業)

囍宴廚‧藝 (已結業)