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2024-01-09
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This Michelin 2-star restaurant is in H Queen’s, under chef & owner Eric Raty, offering a menu combining the Nordic and Japanese culinary components to delight diners. Returning after more than four years, I want to see whether there is any new experience in store for us.The décor has not changed, with a rosy pink and soft ambience. The high, arched ceiling with the neat chandelier lighting is exquisitely elegant, with our circular banquette seating comfortable and cosy, facing out to the balcon
The décor has not changed, with a rosy pink and soft ambience. The high, arched ceiling with the neat chandelier lighting is exquisitely elegant, with our circular banquette seating comfortable and cosy, facing out to the balcony and the night view of the Central skyline.The sommelier introduces the different champagnes which I have chosen Franck Bonville Grand Cru Unisson NV ($250) as aperitif, a Blanc de Blancs disgorged at Dec 2022. Complex and mineral-dominated, it is clean with a stony finish. My wife has a Peach Juice ($85).
We have ordered the 8-course Menu ($1,888) with a 4-glass wine-pairing ($1,200). Before starting the first course, we are served the Brioche with Mentaiko Butter. The bread dough is added with miso and seaweed to increase the complexity in flavours, buttery and very soft in texture. The Normandy butter is mixed with mentaiko and some paprika to give umami and a bit of spiciness. Really delicious, we quickly devour the whole and must resist the urge to ask for another one.The first wine paired is Houou Biden Higeban Junmai Daiginjo 鳳凰美田 髭判 純米大吟釀 生詰 瓶燗火入. The famous Tochigi brewery makes this sake with a special, rare type of rice ‘亀粋’. With good melon and peach aromas, it is smooth on the palate, slightly dry, and good match with the food in the first three courses.
The first course is Fruit Tomato. On the bottom is the Japanese fruit tomato which has a nice sweetness to balance with its acidity. On top are some sliced Korea strawberry, a piece of long pepper and shiso flowers, pickled roselle, and red radish with sticky beetroot. Mixing with the tomato oil, the complex taste of the various components harmonized well, while keeping it refreshing and delicate overall. Very good.The second course is Shiro Ebi & Caviar. The raw small white shrimps are from Toyama, sweet and soft on the bite. Underneath is a jelly made from kombu and squid, providing a delicate umami note to supplement with the delicious caviar on top. There is also a fish soup to go along. Very rich, creamy, and full of flavours, with the drop of dill oil able to add freshness to the soup to good effects. It might seem simple to make but the balance of flavours is amazing. Very good.
The third course is Abalone. The chef has grilled the South African abalone perfectly, soft to the bite and flavourful, without turning rubbery. With a foam made from the abalone liver, the course also showcases the al dente buckwheat noodle in a rich homemade hojicha sauce, with some buckwheat crisps to give contrast on the texture. Very good.The second wine paired is from the famous estate in Pfalz, Philipp Kuhn Kirschgarten Grosses Gewachs Pinot Blanc 2015. The concentrated white peach nose deviates from my assumption about the lack of character in this varietal generally, demonstrating how well-made the wine is, with considerable power and acidity, lots of appealing white blossoms as well as white and yellow fruit.
The fourth course is Tuna. The chef has prepared a homemade tortilla made with kale, soft and with a good bite. Inside is the nicely seasoned lean tuna tartar, with some crumbles on top, made from sushi rice in liquid nitrogen. Paired with some sour cream and horseradish, plus some pickled radish on the side to refresh the palate, it is a fusion celebrating Japanese sushi. Very good.The fifth course is Scallop. Concealed under a slide of thinly sliced radish is the perfectly charcoal-grilled Maine scallop, with a nice char on the surface but soft and moist interior, sweet and delicious. On the bottom is some daikon pieces to give a contrasting bite, while the Sakura shrimp on top helps to bring forth a wonderful umami taste, to go along with the homemade lobster sauce. Very good.
The sixth course is Kiwi. Serving to refresh the palate, the kiwi sorbet has nice acidity, balanced with the slices of mini kiwi which provided sweetness from the fruit. On the bottom are the seeds of radish, which the chef has made into a compote to give a bit of bite and sweetness to complement. Very good.The third wine paired is Dujac Fils & Pere Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes 2018. The fruity red has good earthy aromas, a nice pick to pair with the pigeon for the main course, and I am impressed that the restaurant arranges a Burgundy from this famous producer in the wine pairing.
For the seventh course there is a choice of three, with me choosing Pigeon while my wife has Grouper. Coming from Loire in France, the pigeon breast has been cooked to medium rare, juicy on the inside while having crisp, caramelized skin with Okinawa black sugar. Together with some Japan sansho pepper, onion chutney, and the rich pigeon jus, it is fantastic in taste. On the side is the confit pigeon leg with a crisp skin on top which is equally delicious. Excellent.The fourth wine paired is Markus Molitor Riesling Auslese Klosterberg Gold Capsule 2017. The German Riesling is pleasant and refreshing, delicate and not too sweet, with lots of floral, citrus, and minerality. A good match with less indulgent dessert.
For the eighth course there is a choice of two, with both of us picking Genmaicha & Caviar ($380 supplement). The genmaicha ice-cream is not too sweet, with a nice fragrance of the toasted rice, with a bit of kombu oil added in the middle, and some lighter-taste caviar on the side. On the bottom is mochi and biscuit, with everything wrapped in a homemade nori sheet, thicker and crispier. The interesting match of savoury and sweet is spot-on, with also the different texture cleverly showcased the different ingredients to good result. Excellent.For Petits Fours, we are first served with the signature, homemade Madeleine. The traditional French pastry, freshly baked, has been added with lemon zest and sake lees. Fragrant, spongy, and not too sweet, it is probably the best madeleine I have tried in Hong Kong. Excellent.
The other petits fours feature Chocolate. Made in-house, the chocolate is rich and appropriate on sweetness level. With a bit of mascarpone cream and strips of white kombu that has been infused with coffee on top, it is a great match with the coffee I order separately. Very good.The whole dining experience is pleasant, with good service, attentive staff who spend time to explains the courses and wines in good details. The bill on the night is $6,744. Compared with my last visit, the restaurant has stepped up in its standards. I look forward to returning soon to enjoy its nice fusion of Nordic and Japanese cuisine again.
张贴
