Rarely does a restaurant's self depiction reflect reality. I've read lofty vision statements, bold missions and guiding principles, and restaurants that seem bent on solving world hunger rather than serving a proper meal. But on Le Garcon Saigon's website, their philosophy of serving 'vibrant and fresh flavors of Saigonese cuisine in a bright and welcoming space' is on point. In fact, I could heartily endorse that statement and cut this short, perhaps adding that Le Garcon is a really fun place to eat.
But that isn't why we're here, is it? Instead, here is a frisbee sized banh xeo ($118 - xeo is an onomatopoeia that describes the sizzling rice crepe batter when it meets the hot pan) that arrives shatteringly crisp and lovingly anointed with plenty of fresh herbs. Pocketed inside is a jumble of shrimp, sausages, bean sprouts, peppers, and other lovely bits. You're meant to tear off bits off that lovely rice batter, ply it with the innards, and wrap it around the herbs. A bite. Fresh. Vibrant. Clean. Perfect. It's the best damn version of banh xeo I've tasted since spending a week in Ho Chi Minh City a year ago.
Here is a plate of excellently curated charcuterie ($168) - perhaps the best (or only good) thing that came from French Imperialism is excellent food - a flavor bomb of chicken pate, opulent head cheese, pickles of many shapes and sizes, and a terrine of something delicious (I lost count at this point but trust me, it was tasty) accompanied by excellently crusty banh mi (French demi-baguette).
And here are skewers of pork meatballs ($128) meant to be tucked into rice paper and dressed with an abundance of fresh herbs, rice vermicelli and hoisin. The meatballs are tightly packed and hum with porky flavor and are brushed with sugarcane liquid to create the welcome Maillard reaction (read: crispy, brown, delicious). It's a simple affair, but the attention to detail at Le Garcon Saigon is what sets them apart.
Eating here is fun. Eating with your hands. Assembling a bespoke bite of food. Hearing the audible crunch of the banh xeo and the following giggle of delight from your dining companions. Drinking a bit too much while soaking in the sights and smells of the semi-outdoor patio area.
If one were to poke holes in the experience, the dining room was a mite on the loud side, and the wait staff were quick to upsell on us deserts, drinks, etc. But I can overlook those details - after all, everyone else is entitled to have their fun as well.
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