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2025-02-06
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This restaurant is the HK branch of the Sushi Zo group which also operates in different parts of the world, including a Michelin-starred branch in Los Angeles. Located in Tai Kwun, at the lower ground floor of the former Police Headquarters Block, it is a bit difficult to find, as the entrance is through a side door inside Gishiki Lounge.The staff helpfully leads us into the large sushi counter that can accommodate a maximum of 12 customers. There are two seatings for dinner, and we go for the e
This restaurant is the HK branch of the Sushi Zo group which also operates in different parts of the world, including a Michelin-starred branch in Los Angeles. Located in Tai Kwun, at the lower ground floor of the former Police Headquarters Block, it is a bit difficult to find, as the entrance is through a side door inside Gishiki Lounge.
The staff helpfully leads us into the large sushi counter that can accommodate a maximum of 12 customers. There are two seatings for dinner, and we go for the early one starting at 6pm, with Executive Chef Ryohei Sugawara and his assistant already busy in preparation. It is quiet on this day, probably because it is CNY eve.
The Dinner Omakase ($2,500 each) comprises of 18 courses. I also order a bottle of Koshinotsuru Nishiki Koi Junmai Daiginjo 越の鶴 純米大吟醸 錦鯉ボトル ($1,688). This sake is produced by 越銘醸 from Niigata, with a delicate dry taste which makes it a nice pairing with most of the food on the night.
The first course is Hamaguri Clam Soup with Noresore. The clam soup has a fantastic umami taste, but the highlight is the seasonal baby eels, which are soft and smooth, exhibiting a delicate, subtle sweetness.
The second course is Shima-Ebi with Mozuku Seaweed. On top of the pickled sea moss are the Hokkaido morotoge shrimp, with its wonderful sweetness pairing well with the sourness of the marinated seaweed, to give balanced and great flavours.
The third course features Wild Buri. Unlike most restaurants using farmed ones, here the yellowtail is caught, with deeper flavours. It is served with a ponzu sauce, plus some yuzu kosho mixed with mashed daikon on top.
The fourth course features Ankimo. The slice of monkfish liver has creamy soft texture, rich in taste but not greasy like foie gras. Paired with bonito jelly and caviar on top to increase the flavours and complexity, together with persimmon and nanohana on the side to balance the richer taste of the monkfish liver.
The fifth course features Sawara. The Spanish mackerel has been coated with a thin layer of crumbs before deep-frying, and then cut into slices for serving. On the fish there are tartare sauce and sansho pickles to season, a nice combination.
Coming to the sushi section, the first piece is Shiro-Amadai Sushi. A premium fish, the tilefish has been marinated in kombu to soften the texture and increase the umami flavours, with a delicate taste and very tender.
The second piece is Aori-Ika Sushi. The chef has meticulously cut the surface of the Bigfin Reef Squid to make it easier to chew, with a special homemade sauce made from the squid ink to add flavours. He also reminds us not to touch the lips as the ink will stain. Fantastic in texture, this type of squid is my favourite for sushi.
The third piece is Kawahagi Sushi. Cutting the thread-sail filefish into strips and serve in a small bowl with shari, the chef prepares a creamy paste made from the delicious fish liver on top, together with a bit of menegi to add fragrance.
The fourth piece is Akagai Sushi. The ark shell is beautifully cut in butterfly shape, very fresh, sweet and crunchy in texture. The chef adds its himo, or mantle, to the sushi, which is very delicious with even more concentrated flavours.
The fifth piece is Saba Sushi. The smoked blue mackerel roll has some maitake mushroom and ginger for texture, plus a strip of translucent vinegared kombu on top for acidity and umami. Wrapped with a nori sheet to serve, it is a wonderful traditional pressed sushi.
Taking a short break from the sushi, the chef shows us the huge Awabi. Cutting the abalone into thin slices, they are served with the creamy liver paste which are rich and flavourful, with the abalone having an amazing bite.
After finishing the abalone, the chef has thoughtfully provided some shari and more of the liver sauce on the plate, and even adding some sea urchin. When mixing it all up, it is like a risotto, so amazing in taste I almost lick the plate clean.
Returning to sushi, the sixth piece is Kuruma-Ebi Sushi. Still steaming, the poached tiger prawn is taken out from the kitchen and immediately removed the shell to serve. The wonderful texture and great sweetness are phenomenal.
The seventh piece is Chu-Toro Sushi. The tuna comes from Oma in Aomori, and this cut of medium fatty portion is my favourite as it has the perfect balance of lean and fat, not too greasy but still able to enjoy the signature rich and intensely flavourful fish oil.
The eighth piece is Uni Sushi, with the chef using Bafun sea urchin but two different types, one in box and one in brine. Putting them in a nori sheet with shari, the generous portion of the two not only allows us to enjoy the sea urchin with satisfaction, but also to taste the contrast in texture.
The ninth piece is Anago Sushi. The sea eel has been grilled before kneading into sushi, and then brushed with a delicious nitsume sauce. The melt-in-the-mouth texture is amazing. This is one of the pieces I would like to ask for an encore.
The tenth and last piece is Tuna Hand Roll, with the chef mixing some minced medium fatty tuna with salmon roes and pickled daikon before making a hand roll, with shiso leaf. A filling and gratifying completion of the sushi.
The Shrimp Miso Soup is tasty, using red miso to give intense flavours, as well as a soothing warmth to the stomach, leaving us with a contented and satisfying memory of a full and delicious dinner.
Finishing dessert is Yukidoke, essentially a mochigome made from glutinous rice with red beans paste filling and a cap made from egg white and a gin called Togedama from Saitama, the home of Chef Sugawara. The Fresh Fruit includes Strawberry and Pomelo. Both very nice.
Service is very good, with the staff and chef all very friendly. Chef Sugawara can speak English and able to interact well with the customers. The food is also fantastic, using high-end ingredients of good quality and freshness. The bill on the night is $7,357 which is reasonable. A wonderful omakase experience.
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